I got it. Taking off the rotor housing as bdc mentioned mad it a lot easier. The trick is to spin it as you slide it down. They just take some working. Those of you who have put all new bearings in, can you turn the motor by hand after you have tork'd the tension bolts? I cannot.

 

by hand how? it shouldnt be any harder to spin than a used bearing motor

 

It should spin fine with a ratchet by hand.

What torque spec on the tension bolts?







-Ted

 

I don't know the exact # honestly. My 2 damn tork wrenches only measure 1-20 and 50-250 ft lbs. I just went to 20#s then using a 3/8 drive ratchet that was 12" turned it another 1/16th of a turn. I was able to turn the motor before I tightened the tension bolts. I will just go back and take them all out and see what the **** is going on.

 

Figure it out. Front rotor a sideseal went sideways and was binding **** up. What happened was when the eshaft was raised to get the center iron on the rotor came up with it since the new bearings was pretty tight on there. It must have fell out and went sideways, it also tore into an inner waterjacket seal. And to boot my buddies 28k mile s5 t2 is stuck at my house with an electrical short........ My other question is do new bearings need to be clearanced? I really need to buy a micrometer.

 

damn dude is that brandons?

 

They shouldnt need to be clearanced. I do, but I clearance everything.



I hate it when a seal drops out when putting a motor together. Its so annoying to have to tear a motor back down to put a seal back in place. Good luck with getting it to run, and liberal use of vaseline doesnt hurt.

 

Today we noticed the stationary gears slide on like butter while the rotor bearings are still tight and take a working to get on...

 

you need a good, japanese (mituoyo) or american (fowler) micrometer ($40), and buy fowler's dial bore gage setup ($100). These tools are critical to me, i cant get away with not clearancing bearings. If your motor runs fine by just slapping bearings together, you're playing with fire IMO. I have clearanced e-shafts by micro polishing them on my lathe, but i dont think other people would agree to doing that. you also dont have a lathe :-)



Eliott, you seem to be building more and more motors and you dont have the nessessary tools to build them, Craftsman sells torque wrenches called digitork. They work GREAT, and you wont break the bank/have to sell a kidney. You DONT need a 500 dollar snap-on torque wrench.

 

I forgot to add that i have also clearanced bearings that where too big by a few thou by sending them to calico coating and having them bake on a nice teflon/graphite coating on them. I'm curious to know why you guys are lubing you motor bearings with vaseline instead of motor oil.