New Rotor Bearings Too Tight?
04-26-2004, 02:16 PM
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 10,906
I got it. Taking off the rotor housing as bdc mentioned mad it a lot easier. The trick is to spin it as you slide it down. They just take some working. Those of you who have put all new bearings in, can you turn the motor by hand after you have tork'd the tension bolts? I cannot.
04-26-2004, 02:58 PM
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 10,906
Originally Posted by RETed' date='Apr 26 2004, 02:51 PM
It should spin fine with a ratchet by hand.
What torque spec on the tension bolts?
-Ted
What torque spec on the tension bolts?
-Ted
04-26-2004, 09:16 PM
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 10,906
Figure it out. Front rotor a sideseal went sideways and was binding **** up. What happened was when the eshaft was raised to get the center iron on the rotor came up with it since the new bearings was pretty tight on there. It must have fell out and went sideways, it also tore into an inner waterjacket seal. And to boot my buddies 28k mile s5 t2 is stuck at my house with an electrical short........ 
My other question is do new bearings need to be clearanced? I really need to buy a micrometer.
04-26-2004, 10:45 PM
#17
Super Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Savannah, Ga
Posts: 2,763
Originally Posted by 1Revvin7' date='Apr 26 2004, 10:16 PM
Figure it out. Front rotor a sideseal went sideways and was binding **** up. What happened was when the eshaft was raised to get the center iron on the rotor came up with it since the new bearings was pretty tight on there. It must have fell out and went sideways, it also tore into an inner waterjacket seal. And to boot my buddies 28k mile s5 t2 is stuck at my house with an electrical short........ My other question is do new bearings need to be clearanced? I really need to buy a micrometer.
I hate it when a seal drops out when putting a motor together. Its so annoying to have to tear a motor back down to put a seal back in place. Good luck with getting it to run, and liberal use of vaseline doesnt hurt.
04-28-2004, 07:11 PM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 1,679
you need a good, japanese (mituoyo) or american (fowler) micrometer ($40), and buy fowler's dial bore gage setup ($100). These tools are critical to me, i cant get away with not clearancing bearings. If your motor runs fine by just slapping bearings together, you're playing with fire IMO. I have clearanced e-shafts by micro polishing them on my lathe, but i dont think other people would agree to doing that. you also dont have a lathe :-)
Eliott, you seem to be building more and more motors and you dont have the nessessary tools to build them, Craftsman sells torque wrenches called digitork. They work GREAT, and you wont break the bank/have to sell a kidney. You DONT need a 500 dollar snap-on torque wrench.
Eliott, you seem to be building more and more motors and you dont have the nessessary tools to build them, Craftsman sells torque wrenches called digitork. They work GREAT, and you wont break the bank/have to sell a kidney. You DONT need a 500 dollar snap-on torque wrench.
04-28-2004, 07:13 PM
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 1,679
I forgot to add that i have also clearanced bearings that where too big by a few thou by sending them to calico coating and having them bake on a nice teflon/graphite coating on them. I'm curious to know why you guys are lubing you motor bearings with vaseline instead of motor oil.