New Rotor Bearings Too Tight?

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04-28-2004, 07:30 PM

#21

j9fd3s

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Join Date: May 2002

Location: California

Posts: 22,465

Quote:

Originally Posted by Apex13B' date='Apr 28 2004, 04:13 PM

I forgot to add that i have also clearanced bearings that where too big by a few thou by sending them to calico coating and having them bake on a nice teflon/graphite coating on them. I'm curious to know why you guys are lubing you motor bearings with vaseline instead of motor oil.

i use motor oil, for anything that slides; bearings, rotor housing (soaks it up like a sponge), side housings.

basically all i use vaseline for anymore is to hold the water seals in. the first couple of motors i used vaseline on everything, but you really dont need it

04-28-2004, 07:52 PM

#22

1Revvin7

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Join Date: Oct 2001

Location: Peoria, AZ

Posts: 10,906

Quote:

Originally Posted by Apex13B' date='Apr 28 2004, 07:11 PM

you need a good, japanese (mituoyo) or american (fowler) micrometer ($40), and buy fowler's dial bore gage setup ($100). These tools are critical to me, i cant get away with not clearancing bearings. If your motor runs fine by just slapping bearings together, you're playing with fire IMO. I have clearanced e-shafts by micro polishing them on my lathe, but i dont think other people would agree to doing that. you also dont have a lathe :-)

Eliott, you seem to be building more and more motors and you dont have the nessessary tools to build them, Craftsman sells torque wrenches called digitork. They work GREAT, and you wont break the bank/have to sell a kidney. You DONT need a 500 dollar snap-on torque wrench.

Yes I realized I need to start getting more tools. I had searched a while back on grainger, use-enco etc etc and could only find ones that were several hundred dollars. I'm going to buy these soon. I have no choice. I did however get the bearings to slide nice and easy, it just takes a lot of lining up and then once its on it slides up and down real nice.

04-29-2004, 12:43 AM

#23

kahren

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Join Date: Jan 2002

Location: CT

Posts: 1,345

take your time with the parts that have frictinal surfaces, u dont want to ding them up or scratch them, take your tiem when sliding eshaft onto rotors and the eshaft into the stationary gears and such, there is no need to damage parts. i use engine assembly lube, instead of oil, i find it easier to work with,for bearings and other contact surfaces.

04-29-2004, 11:45 AM

#24

j9fd3s

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Join Date: May 2002

Location: California

Posts: 22,465

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1Revvin7' date='Apr 28 2004, 04:52 PM

how about spinning? you dont care if it goes in and out

04-29-2004, 02:20 PM

#25

1Revvin7

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Join Date: Oct 2001

Location: Peoria, AZ

Posts: 10,906

Quote:

Originally Posted by j9fd3s' date='Apr 29 2004, 11:45 AM

how about spinning? you dont care if it goes in and out

Yea it spins fine no catching at all. But then again spining at my hand speed vs xxxrpms is a different thing. I did just get my digi caliper in the mail today and I orderd a 10-100 ft # ratching tork wrench.