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New Engine Burning Coolant!

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Old Aug 14, 2003 | 07:49 PM
  #21  
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that sucks and the judge is not back from vacay yet
Old Aug 18, 2003 | 08:11 PM
  #22  
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After searching high and low for a Cosmo intermediate plate, I gave up and called Pineapple. Although they did not have one, I asked about their experience with epoxy and based on the info they've given me, I have decided to go that route. It's not over-the-shelf stuff I'll be using but about $50+ for both parts a/b in pint size. I'll have a bit left over :-)



Anyway, they use this stuff in their bridge port and it'll last for years without problem. My "hole" isn't much of a hole (you can barely feel it with your finger) which will present a bit of a challenge. It won't take much to seal the sucker up though and I won't have to go through the whole porting process again. My main priority is to get the car up and running and I think this stuff will do it. I'll report back after I've done the "epoxy mod" :-)
Old Aug 18, 2003 | 08:14 PM
  #23  
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yup you need to do that on giant ports.....
Old Aug 19, 2003 | 08:27 AM
  #24  
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Why not weld?



It's been done before. Just takes a bit of patience (not too much at a time)



Use a piece of copper behind the hole and mig weld through the port- it'll be a more permanent fix than the epoxy. Grind back and smooth as per porting.



The epoxy will probably work fine, and as vosko says, some ports need epoxy in the aluminum housings to block off the coolant channels (and also in the iron plates on PP's I think).



Just my two cents...
Old Aug 19, 2003 | 03:38 PM
  #25  
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Just use a FD intermediate housing and port it down to match the intake runners, you may lose a little port volume, but no much and it won't leak. I don't think I would trust epoxy on somthing that will be daily driven. If you do use the epoxy then fill the water jacket around the port, but don't actually put anyting in the port. I'm assuming your already going to do it that way, but just incase I thought I'd mention it. No since in sucking a chunk of **** in to your engine and taking somthing out that's important like a apex seal or ex wheel on the turbo..
Old Aug 19, 2003 | 03:42 PM
  #26  
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I'll take a pic to show the area I'm fixing. I can't get at it from behind which is why we can't weld it unfortunately. Thought about the REW plate but again, I'd have to really hog the runners out as the LIM has already been ported to "cosmo" specs otherwise I'm looking at port reversion caused by the lip. Plus it'll take so damn long to get an REW plate, port it and get it ready to go...with epoxy, I'll be on the road in two days or so. It's about to become a weekend car very, very soon as well :-)

Michel
Old Aug 19, 2003 | 04:27 PM
  #27  
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just fyi every plate has been nitraded since 1978. the non nitraded motors are spotable by black painted irons



mike
Old Aug 19, 2003 | 05:43 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s' date='Aug 19 2003, 09:27 PM
just fyi every plate has been nitraded since 1978. the non nitraded motors are spotable by black painted irons



mike
and can't you lap the treated ones you just won't have as hard of a face afterwards (pre-78 wear characteristics afterwards) which might not be a big deal for you if it's a largely ported motor that isn't expecting many miles anyways.
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