so is it fixed now todd ?

 

I am breakin it is right now, I have 600klm done so far only 400 more and she is going to get tuned. I have given it a little boost, I am very happy the t-88 seems to be spooling earlier than I thought. I need to take some pictures and send them to ya.

 

I'm not sure if you took it apart yet, but if you didn't you could re-torque the tension bolts by removing the transmission and see what happens before you pull and tear down the whole motor again.

Either good luck with that and don't let it bum you out man.

 

Not out yet but it will be tomorrow. We did a few tests and finally pulled the plugs. Turned her over and she sprayed coolant out the rear housing. So...pulling her apart. I think it'd be almost impossible to just throw out coolant if the engine wasnt' torqued correctly. I'd be loosing oil (although it HAS been using more oil than it should). I'll take pics and let everyone know what the diagnosis is...Not sure what I'm going to do if it's a hairline crack in one of the intake ports. If it's really small, I may have it welded and just go with it.



On another note, anyone know if the REW plates are the only ones that are nitride hardened on the face? I just heard that it was the first to receive this new treatment. I'm wondering if the RE plates on the 2 rotor cosmo and 3 rotor cosmo have the same hardened surface. I'm asking because I have heard that due to this treatment, you cannot lap a third gen plate.

 

I'm sorry to hear about the new problem. Was looking forward to seeing how this sucker turned out with the big streetport.

At work (in the hydraulic field) we build bankable valves in witch they receive some o-rings in between the sections. Every once and a while a valve will come back because it started to leak after X amount of hrs of use. Almost 100% of the time it's due to a pinched o-ring durring assembly. The o-ring will seal for a while untill it gives out due to pressure spikes or just regular use. Maybe this is what happened to your coolant seal? Hope so, it's a lot cheeper to fix then a hairline crack in one of the ports.

 

I hope you're right! If so, I won't have to foot the bill :-) The engine feels pretty strong. I've gone through and tuned on the street up to about .9kg/cm2 with a safe/rich high 10's for air fuel ratio until I can slap her on the dyno and really start tuning with fuel and timing. At .75-8kg I can outrun a BPU Supra and/or a supercharged S2000 quite easily, LOL.

Michel

 

I'm pretty sure the cosmo motors are nitrided as well. The plates can be lapped, but they need to be re-nitrided again afterwards.

 

Really...didn't know you could re-nitride them! Wonder who does that in the states. Anyway, the verdict is in, I got a bit overzealous in the bottom of the primary runners creating a bit of a thin spot. You can feel it, but can't really see a hole per se. Looking at the two primary runners internally, there's a disk-shaped coloration in the bottom of both ports, almost like there's a plug or something left from the casting process. for some reason, the front rotor primary was a bit porous in that area. It's pretty small.



Anyway, the engine is apart and everything came out fine. No bad seals, housings, etc..One issue that I did note was a small 'burn" spot on the rear E-shaft journal. It's on the very back edge and it wore a thin (few thousanths) ring around the rotor bearing exposing the brass. We're replacing the bearing but for the life of me, I can't figure out what it would hit to cause that. If you run your fingers around the edge of the journal, it's fairly sharp. Well where it melds back into the length of the shaft, it gets rough for about 1.5 inches and is discolored due to heat. We'ere checking to see if the shaft is still good (looks like it should be) but I'd like to figure out what caused that. It was fairly difficult to get the rear rotor off the shaft. No spun bearing however and the bearing face looked brand new.



So...lesson learned. I'll let someone else do the port job next time. Although I learned, if you can't afford the downtime/rebuild while you're "learning", let the experts do it.



I'm now in the search for a new Cosmo intermediate plate. Vosko, is Judge back from vacation yet?

 

did they put oil on the threads of the torsen bolts when they torked them? If not that will definitly cause improper tork.. You might be able to drop the mission and pull the flywheel and retork them one at a time using the tork sequence.. Ie. pull #1 clean the threads, put oil on the threads and tork it, then do #2 and so on..

 

Sorry to hear about your misfortune Michel

Makes me feel good to know my ports are still holding up like Mt. Rushmore.



Goodluck next time around. Post pics next time.