need help with pp engine
#1
I have a semi pp 13b turbo. It was a rebuild motor that has about 30 miles on it by now and about an hour of idling. I can't start the motor just with cranking but it starts fine with a short pull. Does anyone have some timing and fuel specs I could try. For crank advance I tried everything from 8 to 38 advance. I tried different splits but it didn't seem to make much of a difference. I noticed it likes a lot of fuel to the point where gas fumes come right out of the exhaust. I get her to crank at just over 400 rpms, so there is some sort of combustion happening but not enough to really get her going. As for methodology, I didn't really have one, it was more a desperate trying different things. Maybe the changes I made were to radical. Can anyone help out with some tips or a proper way to find the right settings? Could there be anything else wrong with the engine other than timing even though it seems to run fine?
Thanks
Thanks
#2
never done a pp motor, but heres what i've done, seems to work.
the FSM says cranking timing is 5BTDC L&T. i find this works well, if the engine is cold it can sometimes kick back, so i use less timing on a cold motor, it cranks over faster. on a hot engine you can use more timing, hot engine spins over quicker anyways.
if you open the throttle a bit does that help?
i find the best starting is where the car is almost floods
the FSM says cranking timing is 5BTDC L&T. i find this works well, if the engine is cold it can sometimes kick back, so i use less timing on a cold motor, it cranks over faster. on a hot engine you can use more timing, hot engine spins over quicker anyways.
if you open the throttle a bit does that help?
i find the best starting is where the car is almost floods
#3
Go p-ports.
I have always had the same problem with mine. Sometimes it starts right up, other times it takes hours. I havent figured out why it does this. I do not have the engine in the car, so I have never been able to roll start it. The easiest way is what j9fds suggested, find the point of almost flooding. That seems to always work for me.
I have always had the same problem with mine. Sometimes it starts right up, other times it takes hours. I havent figured out why it does this. I do not have the engine in the car, so I have never been able to roll start it. The easiest way is what j9fds suggested, find the point of almost flooding. That seems to always work for me.
#4
try about 15-20 degrees cranking timing.
fuel depends on your injector size, but try a little fuel, and stab the throttle a bunch of times to enrich with the accelerator pump. keep adding a little fuel at a time until you don't need to pump the gas anymore.
depending on your ecu and ignition setup, you might want to bump your coil charge time up a little bit and see if that helps.
fuel depends on your injector size, but try a little fuel, and stab the throttle a bunch of times to enrich with the accelerator pump. keep adding a little fuel at a time until you don't need to pump the gas anymore.
depending on your ecu and ignition setup, you might want to bump your coil charge time up a little bit and see if that helps.
#5
Thank for all your help...
I think my problem is to much blow by. The plugs are fouled with oil at every crank. I guess the pulling helps to get her started where the oil isn't to much of an issue. I only had 25 PSI of compression. I guess I have to rip her apart to see whats wrong inside the engine. Too bad she ran pretty sweet...when she ran.
I think my problem is to much blow by. The plugs are fouled with oil at every crank. I guess the pulling helps to get her started where the oil isn't to much of an issue. I only had 25 PSI of compression. I guess I have to rip her apart to see whats wrong inside the engine. Too bad she ran pretty sweet...when she ran.
#7
Originally Posted by z8cw' post='762258' date='Sep 23 2005, 07:31 PM
Thank for all your help...
I think my problem is to much blow by. The plugs are fouled with oil at every crank. I guess the pulling helps to get her started where the oil isn't to much of an issue. I only had 25 PSI of compression. I guess I have to rip her apart to see whats wrong inside the engine. Too bad she ran pretty sweet...when she ran.
The Pport should start just like a stock engine, and have nearly th same compression.
The engine is in dreadful condition. The excess oil should be helping with starting not hurting.
The first engine I built had 9MM seals and two side seals. It was from a junk yard and built from all scrap parts. To start it I poured in hot coffee and a 1/4 cup of engine oil.
It started right up with a huge cloud of smoke. Once running it was fine. Just very little power.
Pulling the car spins up the engine faster than the starter can, and give much less time for compression to leak down. Get the engine sealed up and all will be well.
Lynn E. Hanover
#8
Originally Posted by Lynn E. Hanover' post='762310' date='Sep 24 2005, 02:11 AM
The first engine I built had 9MM seals and two side seals. It was from a junk yard and built from all scrap parts. To start it I poured in hot coffee and a 1/4 cup of engine oil.
What!!
#9
Originally Posted by ColinRX7' post='762372' date='Sep 24 2005, 09:25 AM
What!!
the old school (68-73) engines have dual side seals and 9mm carbon apex seals. the cosmo 10a's (0810) has a 3rd rotor oil seal too