Lynn E. Hanover

In very cold weather, if you have no antifreeze to spray into the carb to kill off the frost, hot coffee works fine and takes up some volume (raising compression). Squirt in some oil, dump in half a cup "O" joe into each hole of the 48IDA Weber and off you go. Other racers liked to stand around and watch me do it.



They just shook their heads.



With a tired engine, just hitting the throttle a few times lets the accellerator pump load up the chambers with extra fuel, and that helps the sealing and adds compression due to the headspace volume reduction.



You need two MSDs to get away with this madness.





Lynn E. Hanover

89 Rag

Wow, that's pretty cool.

z8cw

Lynn,

You are always good for a great story.



What should I look for when I tear the engine down. What I don't understand is that I have the same low compression on all 6 chambers. Is there a build problem that will typically have this problem?



CW

The Ultimate 7

Cabon seals doesn't do much damage to the housings correct? Why did Mazda stop using them in this size? Does it have something to do with their weight?



Hmm imagine a 9mm ceramic apex seal. That engine would probably never blow.

The Ultimate 7

Found some 6mm stuff on ebay!



http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQs...5fhumanQ5ftree

z8cw

Any ideas before I tear it down?



Thanks

Lynn E. Hanover

I have no clue at all. You could get 25 PSI with no side seals, so, compression that low is not pointing to any one thing.



Was it built with good smooth housings and irons? The excess oil sounds like failed oil control "O" rings or a broken scraper ring. Unlikely in a fresh engine. I am at a loss.



I would have had it on the floor in 30 minutes to find out.



In the old days we made 3MM carbon seals out of 9MM carbon seals. For NA stuff carbon is great. No wear on the chrome at all. Ceramic if you have the cash. Even running two springs, the ceramics have less drag and make more power everywhere.





Lynn E. Hanover

z8cw

Thanks for the input....The housings were resurfaced and so where the plates. I just don't want to tear her down and later find out there was an obvious fix. The engine parts went through a lot of welding and respecing so I might have screwed up along the way. My housings are 10thousand to narrow so I took down the apex seals and rotors to bring it back to OEM clearances. I wanted to use Ceramic Apex seals but I needed 10thousand additional clearing so I switched back to steal. No way I could have taken the ceramics down that much. Who knows...the side seals I left untouched so they might be presprung to much...don't see that as a problem though. As for the oil rings, I used all new components, so as you said, I don';t think that is the problem.



Will see what I find next week and keep you posted.



Thanks for your input

j9fd3s

they dont last very long, comparatively, and dont seal as well either. iron seals are better for a street car. in a race car, carbons are nice cause they are easy on the rotor housings, and light so they work ok at high rpms.

RONIN FC

You didnt clearance your side seals?