13BT-RX3

Thanks. I mainly used a couple carbide burrs, a couple different size sanding rolls, and some emery cloth on a 1/4 rod.

heretic

I finally started playing with a junk rotor that I cut up and turned into a seal visualization tool, and for the first trick, I turned it loose onto some 6-port end housings I had lying around.



Damned if the trailing edges of the side seals weren't just flapping there in the breeze, unsupported! Completely stock housings.

Lynn E. Hanover

Sounds like a vote for a radius and polish on the closing line, if just to preserve the side seals.



The seal only has time to drop into the port when the engine is stopped or nearly stopped. So startup or a very slow idle would allow this time.



So long as there is a closing angle between the closing line or that web between the ports, the side seal is forced back into the groove from inside to outside, and no damage results.



So, the closing line should look stock when porting is complete, to preserve that angle or increase it.



Lynn E. Hanover



Picture is my Camel lights GTP car (rotary powered)

13BT-RX3

I am sorry MR. Hanover but i am new at this and i am having a hard time visualizing what you mean by the closing line angle. Are you referring to the radius from the port to the face of the iron or something else? And also which side seal poses the most danger of being damaged, the trailing end of the seal that is on the intake stroke or the leading end of the seal that is finishing the exhaust stroke ( if that makes sense). I understand what you mean when you say if the seal enters the port make sure it stays in the port till it reaches the closing line and use the radius from the port to the face of the iron to push it back in.



Thanks to everyone for taking time to help me out guys!!!!

13BT-RX3

I ran across a thread about Ito's ports and Anthony and Peter were talking about 10-10.8 MM being a safe limit for the distance from the water seal groove to the edge of the port opening edge. Could i in theory just make sure no part of the opening edge exceeds those measurements? I do not have a rotor to cut up to make a tool from.



Thanks

Allen

Lynn E. Hanover

I made this picture some time back, of a port from a major builder that was rounding off the trailing end of the side seals.

As soon as you remove material along the outside of the port, (the opening line) you remove support for thr trailing end of the side seal, and it will droop into the port at low speed.



So when the drooping end contacts the curve in the port face with a length unsupported, the iron gets a burr on it and the seal corner gets rounded and leaks compression.



One cure is to extend the poen line up so as to intersect the closing line with a sharper corner. There is no need to extend the bowl shape up that far, just keep a shallow cut up as shown by the white line. This is not to change timing, just to extend side seal life and maintain compression. I also do a slight radius and polish job on the closing line.



If you were to run a sensitive body part across this port at 100 MPH, would you want a razor sharp closing line, or a nice radius. Your body part and your side seals will thank you for a radius. The closing line and the side seal should close like a pair of scissors. Not that the closing line of the stock port is nearly straight.



Lynn E. Hanover

13BT-RX3

Thanks you very much!!!! It makes perfect sense now

Lynn E. Hanover

That should have to "Note" that the stock closing line is nearly straight.



Also here is the answer about which seal will be damaged first, the trailing. In some street ports the open line is moved to the point that the leading end is nearly falling into the port. Needless to say the trailing end has long since fallen into the port and needs the closing line mod to stay alive. Look how much material must be removed to get to the leading end path. One must be alert so as not to strike water.



Lynn E. Hanover

13BT-RX3

Here is a picture of a stock REW port. It's kinda hard to see the lines though.

thebluerx7

so the traling end really does just float in the breeze then get pulled back up onto the plate as the rotor moves and closes the port.



also,how do u know how far up to take the port? as in how many mm up are u guys moving the closing edge,and is it best to keep stock closing edge angle but just later ?