Rotary Engine Building, Porting & Swaps All you could ever want to know about rebuilding and porting your rotary engine! Discussions also on Water, Alcohol, Etc. Injection

making my own baffle

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-28-2009, 07:54 PM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
sen2two's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Kissimmee FL.
Posts: 1,579
Default

im making the oil pan for my renesis with a 12a front cover. and im making it with a built in baffle plate.



just trying to make sure where i should leave openings on my oil pan/baffle for the renesis...same as i would an older 13b?



also...oil flows out the front cover so i should be able to remove the nut on the bottom of the front cover and plug it?



sen2two is offline  
Old 05-29-2009, 06:27 AM
  #2  
Fabricator
 
Lynn E. Hanover's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Central Ohio (Hebron) Zephyrhills Fla.
Posts: 1,322
Default

Originally Posted by sen2two' post='922177' date='May 28 2009, 05:54 PM
im making the oil pan for my renesis with a 12a front cover. and im making it with a built in baffle plate.



just trying to make sure where i should leave openings on my oil pan/baffle for the renesis...same as i would an older 13b?



also...oil flows out the front cover so i should be able to remove the nut on the bottom of the front cover and plug it?





The "nut" is a plug in a oil pressure relief gallery. Remove the plug, spring and plunger and clean out the gallery, then oil and replace the plug spring and plunger. This is adjusted to open at 140 pounds to protect the "O" ring junction and the oil cooler from over-pressure during a cold start. I would leave it in.



I would make the baffle plate from 1/16" or thicker aluminum and other than the oil pickup hole and one to clear the nut, there should be only one opening as shown. This is to cure several problems. Under hard braking the entire oil supply will fill the front cover, and leave the oil pickup uncovered for a few seconds. Bad mojo. Also, a similar situation in hard cornering. At one "G" under braking, the oil surface will attain a 45 degree angle in the pan. You can brake at more than one "G".



The other problem is the oil squirted into the rotors for cooling becomes badley foamed and is then difficult to cool and is a poor lubricant. The oil moving across the flat plate has time to loose some of the foaming air before falling into the sump. This works so well you can road race with it as well as for just street use.



Lynn E. Hanover
Lynn E. Hanover is offline  
Old 05-29-2009, 05:49 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
sen2two's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Kissimmee FL.
Posts: 1,579
Default

thanks Lynn...
sen2two is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
moyam01
2nd Generation Specific
6
12-06-2006 08:16 PM
R.P.M.
Rotary Engine Building, Porting & Swaps
39
01-25-2005 09:07 PM
Dakmis
Insert BS here
56
02-17-2004 12:02 AM
tewquick2c
Rotary Engine Building, Porting & Swaps
24
12-08-2003 11:13 PM
RX4Speed
RX-7 & RX-8 Parts For Sale & Wanted
0
12-12-2001 06:29 PM

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 


Quick Reply: making my own baffle



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:06 PM.