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Loop Line Modification

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Old 05-26-2004, 02:14 PM
  #21  
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here is a pic of the acc plate and compressor w/loopline



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Old 05-26-2004, 02:25 PM
  #22  
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damn BDC you got enough ss line in that pic



BDC have you put a pressure transducer at the loop line inlet to see what the diference in pressure is with and without the loopline??

it would be interesting to see real numbers instead of speculating!

it must hlp though from what i have been told.



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Old 05-26-2004, 02:29 PM
  #23  
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here is a link to a couple good pics if anyone is interested in doing this



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/index.php?...26583&st=25&hl=
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Old 05-26-2004, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by BDC' date='May 25 2004, 09:01 PM
Here's what I think:



the size of the oil galley in the gear seems about the right size of -6. However, the tubular dowel run seems to be the size of -10. That's the only thing I can think of.



I basically modeled mine after what Pineapple Racing does. It seems to work well from what I can tell. I didn't block the tubular dowel run, however. Maybe I will next go-around.



Lynn? Ito?



B
I would not block off the dowel run. The problem you are solving is too much turbulence in the dowels caused by the threads. So there is lower oil pressure at the front main bearing than at the rear.



The second path is without turbulence, and if it is the same size or bigger than the dowel run, will cut flow velocity in half or more. So the lower velocity=lower turbulence=more oil even at a lower velocity through the dowel run and through the aux line. Even a dash 6 aux line will improve the situation, but for racing the dash 10 is closer to the dowel ID.



We drill out the gallery to the bearing and the hole through the bearing also. Well I grind it out because it is as hard as Chinese arithmetic.



Lynn E. Hanover



Picture is the front of the engine. There is a "V" belt size that runs the pump without an idler, for the comp pulleys, if anyone wants the P/N.
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Old 05-26-2004, 03:21 PM
  #25  
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That's what people call a yoohoo belt. I have two and will install a third soon (on three different engines heh).



How hard is it to install that one? I getmine from Napa and they're a little too wide to fit easily. I'd rather pre-run them on something before installing them on an engine. I don't want to risk bearing damage. Hmm, maybe an electric motor and an idler pulley would break-in the belts before use?
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Old 05-27-2004, 12:50 PM
  #26  
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The RB block's oil pressure and temperature (machined) outlets are on the *unfiltered* side so I couldn't in good conscience use this for the source of the loop line.


Yikes. Wouldn't you want to measure oil pressure *downstream* of the filter to begin with? (In case it's being a restriction...I know, they're suppose to bypass, but still)



As for the houding cracking problem Ito mentions - one of the local guys recently ran into just that problem. Cracked the housing, dumped oil all over the track, and was in for a serious white knuckle adventure when the tires ran through it.
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Old 05-27-2004, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Lynn E. Hanover' date='May 26 2004, 08:00 PM
The problem you are solving is too much turbulence in the dowels caused by the threads. So there is lower oil pressure at the front main bearing than at the rear.
So if the problem is the threads in the dowels... wouldn't it be way easier to just drill out the threads when you assemble the engine? I've never had to use a puller on the pins, so I don't see the benefit of keeping the threads....
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Old 05-28-2004, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Wargasm' date='May 27 2004, 07:00 PM
So if the problem is the threads in the dowels... wouldn't it be way easier to just drill out the threads when you assemble the engine? I've never had to use a puller on the pins, so I don't see the benefit of keeping the threads....
I'd tend to believe that if you did that then you further weaken an already weak point in the motor.

I believe this oil loopline mod would enhance or supplement the oiling system of the rotary motor.

Good food for thought BDC/LYNN.
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