j9fd3s

i like vaseline, and the silicone works well too.

Lynn E. Hanover

I used to use hylomar on Hewland transmissions every time I changed gears. Never had a leak.



It came from the UK and was pricy. Now Permatex owns it, but I have not used it for years, so I have no idea what it costs.



The GE silicone works great and a caulking gun sized tube is like $3.00.



Until I ran out of it, I used some great Teflon insulated 18 gage hook up wire (aircraft) as the inner coolant (compression) "O" ring. The outer you can reuse many times. I do put in a bit of silicone in the groove to start. Then the wire. Then some more silicone. I have to cut a section out of it anyway to clear the intake port. A little dab at the end of the wire in the groove.



The black outer "O" ring will be too long after one use. I cut it to the correct length at a 45 degree angle and glue it into the rotor housing with (guess what?) more silicone. Put the joint at the top of the engine so you can see a leak. I have never had one leak in 24 years.



Once assembled, turn the engine over several times and remove the excess silicone from the exhaust ports.



Lynn E. Hanover



lehanover@aol.com

banzaitoyota

Why are you complaining about spending 5 bucks on a tube of hylomar? The places people try to save a dollar amaze me.



The problem I see with using a hardening silicone type product is that it "lock the O-ring in position, preventing it from moving/rolling with the housings and irons as it expands/contracts



The problem is further exasporated by using seals that "aren't quite right" ie the Teflon Encapsulated O-ring from Mcmaster carr. The O-ring has to be finesed to fit and hels in with liberal quantities of hylomar.



This is one of the reasons I am having the new inner ring made, be patient!!!

1Revvin7

Lynn, what are you doing in that picture??



Banzai hurry up on correct fitment seals!

Lynn E. Hanover

OOPS,



Wrong picture. That should have been a housing with silicone all over it.



The picture is a rig to find TDC with some degree (PUN) of accuracy. There is a giant degree wheel mounted on an old flywheel nut that has been split open and a cap screw added so I can move it around to where it needs to be and then tighten it up on the crank, so it cannot move once I get it perfect.



This not to be real good about ignition timing, because until you add boost or nitrous, the rotary is not particularly sensitive to timing. The stock marks seem adequate once you clean them up.



The point is that to compare what port timing you want, or have done must be compared to other engines you have done, or what another tuner is, or claims he is doing.



So, if you or he (or she) has not identified to a great degree of accuracy where this or that port opens or closes, then you ar just talking without transferring data.



If I say my new intake closes at 85 degrees ABDC, (which it does) however, I have identified my TDC mark 3 degrees late. You may grind up a similar port at a true 85 degrees ABDC and find that you have little power below 8,500 RPM.



Then you would complain to me about the bum information I gave out about port timing. While I get better performance from my engine because my ACTUAL closing is 82 degrees ABDC. (I exaggerated to make the point. Please no phone calls)



So in the case of port timing (rotary's cam shaft) accuracy is very important. In the case of the ignition timing, the pulley is so small that seeing a small difference is at once impossible, and also (relatively) unimportant. So if you can resolve ignition timing to within a degree or so it won't have much affect.



Some will notice that the pivot point on this rig is close to the crank throw and can generate a paralax problem. So the crank moving away from TDC in one direction will generate indicater movement at a different rate than in the other (because the crank throw is moving closer the the pivot point). However, I can resolve movement within one degree (inside of one degree) so I feel this is close enough.

It could be made more accurate by moving the pivot point some great distance from the crank.



Once actual TDC is determined. The degree wheel is turned on the crank untill the TDC mark is directly below the pointer. Then the flywheel nut is tightened to clamp onto the crank. In the picture the crank has been turned in the running direction to the BDC intake point. The rotor face is exactly horizontel. As you can see, the intake port is still open at BDC. So turning the crank in the running direction from here untill the port closes, would give you a reading on the degree wheel of 175 degrees ATDC.



So you deduct the 90 degrees from 175 and get 85 degrees ABDC.



Getting sick yet?



Or to make it dead simple. Just turn the crank to the BDC position. (Maximum volume on the intake stroke) loosen the nut. Turn the degree wheel to the BDC position under the pointer, and lock the nut again. Now turn the crank until the port closes and look at the pointer. It will read 85 degrees ABDC. Same as before but your brain will feel much better.



So this picture shows the engine at BDC intake. There is another BDC. It is when the exhaust cycle is at maximum volume. Just like a piston engine. There are two

TDCs.



The one we play with for ignition timing, and the one at overlap, where the rotor face is across the intake and exhaust ports (the face is vertical) just like a piston engine.



I see some light bulbs coming on.



Note the very large degree wheel, for better resolution.



Lynn E. Hanover

Baldy

White_FC

So........ Where is the pic of the housing with silicone all over it? would love to see it and compare it with how i ended up doing mine.

MAZDAROTARYPOWER

i also have used vasoline with no problems.

Drago86

Whered you get that degree wheel? Any suggestions for a cheap one?

rx7_re

what the hell is going on with that rotor? I've never seen it cut like that before.