J-bridging
#12
Originally Posted by RETed' date='Feb 25 2004, 08:46 PM
"J" stands for "jacket", and it has to be compromised.
-Ted
The "J" bridge port leaves the outer wall of the "O" ring groove in the rotor housing intact so as to seal out the coolant. No material is added to the engine.
The port shown in the hyperlink is a "Monster" bridge port, where the rotor housing is filled with epoxy. The runner includes the epoxy as one wall.
Since material must be added to manufacture this port, it is not legal in SCCA and other forms of racing.
Lynn E. Hanover
#13
One thing I have always been curious about...
Do you actually put an inner coolant seal in there or do you just run without one. I could see cutting one up so it will not obstruct the port. I dont know what goes on there so could someone clear that up for me. Thanks
Do you actually put an inner coolant seal in there or do you just run without one. I could see cutting one up so it will not obstruct the port. I dont know what goes on there so could someone clear that up for me. Thanks
#15
Originally Posted by rx7_re' date='Feb 26 2004, 09:45 PM
One thing I have always been curious about...
Do you actually put an inner coolant seal in there or do you just run without one. I could see cutting one up so it will not obstruct the port. I dont know what goes on there so could someone clear that up for me. Thanks
Do you actually put an inner coolant seal in there or do you just run without one. I could see cutting one up so it will not obstruct the port. I dont know what goes on there so could someone clear that up for me. Thanks
I have used teflon insulated 18 gage aircraft wire and a slight amount of silicone for this seal. A friend just uses regular crap 18 gage hook up wire and silicone.
The outer seal (the black one) can be reused several times, as is true of the teflon coated wire. The black seal just needs to be shortended a bit, so I cut it at a 45 and add a dab of silicone to the junction. I put the junction at the top of the engine, so any leak shoud be visible. But have never had one leak yet.
I love silicone.
Was that clear enough?
Lynn E. Hanover
lehanover@aol.com
#17
Originally Posted by FrostRacing' date='Feb 27 2004, 07:10 AM
it seems to me that notching the rotor housing may catch the apex seal has this ever happened?
One design has a triangular corner piece that would seem well enough supported to work well. The end would be supported between 30% and 50% by the bridge and the main part of the apex seal covers that corner piece where it would interface with the notch. Another design has that end piece being of some length with a junction in the face of the seal.
The edge of the notch would have to be well outboard of this junction lest the high unit pressure wear a groove in the housing.
Since the wall of the center cast iron is thinner than the end plates, that bridge is generally left a bit wider to reduce the chances of cracking. I don't work with the metal seals at all, so this is speculation, but I would run the loose ends against the center iron, just to get more support for the corner pieces. So you have carbon, or ceramic, or 2 piece with a small loose corner piece, or a 2 piece with a big corner piece, (if the notch is small enough) but not the 3 piece.
If you super glue the corners onto the main part of the seal, you can install them any way around with ease. The loose ends won't ( most of the time) pop off and vanish on the floor.
The super glue fails in the first few seconds of operation, and everything is then normal, sealing wise.
Lynn E. Hanover
lehanover@aol.com
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