hi comp rotor
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 105
From: Barrie, Ontario, Cananda
Great posts. Love your car Lynn. Only thing I would do differently is that I would preheat the rotor.
Keep it on a hot plate set to about 400deg.c. Never tried welding anything submerged in water. It's a sound theory, you obviously know your stuff. My experience is mostly with hardened steels and they tend to crack if you don't keep an even temp. throughout. Also I would use stainless filler rod. That's what I use on irons that people hit the water jackets on when porting. Works great. You should read Rotary Engine by Kenichi Yamoto. Can't remember where I found it online though. You can download it as an adobe file.
Brent
Keep it on a hot plate set to about 400deg.c. Never tried welding anything submerged in water. It's a sound theory, you obviously know your stuff. My experience is mostly with hardened steels and they tend to crack if you don't keep an even temp. throughout. Also I would use stainless filler rod. That's what I use on irons that people hit the water jackets on when porting. Works great. You should read Rotary Engine by Kenichi Yamoto. Can't remember where I found it online though. You can download it as an adobe file.
Brent
Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 43
Originally Posted by Judge Ito' post='805243' date='Mar 2 2006, 12:48 AM
I have a rotor out of Curtis wright rotary engine company located here in Jersey. Later sold to John Deere.. later sold and named rotary power international. Rotor is about 12.0 to 1 compression ratio. basically no bath tub. 2mm apex seals. I tried getting a tour of the company but they closed it down about 2 years ago. Last time I check rotary power international was making 11.5 liter rotary engines for industrial use. website and company is down. they were looking for investors all over wall street. I guess nothing happend. I still have the rotor. I even had a rotor housing from them with one spark plug. Just the leading no trailing.
Some guy up in TN had a Stack of these engines new in the Box.
I do not own nor did I build this.
A run down the track
http://www.buckethillcemetery.com/13Bpullt...or/MOV06754.MPG
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 500
From: Minneapolis,MN
Originally Posted by Lynn E. Hanover' post='805355' date='Mar 2 2006, 04:04 AM
Picture is a 13B converted to airplane use. Note the long runners, tuned to 6,000 RPM.
Lynn E. Hanover
I hope somone adds a heat shield to that front engine strut or they are gonna loose an engine
Fabricator
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,322
From: Central Ohio (Hebron) Zephyrhills Fla.
Originally Posted by GMON' post='808215' date='Mar 15 2006, 09:57 PM
I hope somone adds a heat shield to that front engine strut or they are gonna loose an engine
Before the local FAA inspecter signs off the aircraft for its first flight, he will issue a list of changes in this installation that must be corrected.
You cannot soft mount the engine and hard mount the exhaust.
As you noticed, that left front Lord mount would decompose quickly without a shield of some sort.
And on it goes. Notice the heat damaged area on the mount where some changes have been made.
In most cases these people know nothing about engines in general or rotaries in particular.
I try to help when I can.
Lynn E. Hanover
Fabricator
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,322
From: Central Ohio (Hebron) Zephyrhills Fla.
Originally Posted by setzep' post='808590' date='Mar 18 2006, 08:42 PM
is that a catalytic coverter on that plane?
No, just another experimental muffler.
The airplanes have the regular Rotary muffling problems, plus the need to get it done inside the confines of the cowling.
So, all stainless or Inconel is a requirement.
The lack of equil length headers is a power killer. However space is very limited.
Lynn E. Hanover
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
