I cant find the page with the removal pattern for the block, you know the dowels on the rear.

Please someone help me right now!!!!!!!

Also, when i get the flywheel off do i then remove the front pulley? Or the other way around?

 

Strap down the flywheel so it cannot move, then remove the front pulley bolt. Then remove the flywheel.

Then the rear iron, the rotor and rotor housing. I then remove the center iron and crank at the same time.

Front rotor, front rotor housing. Then flip it over and take the front case apart.



If you have pried on or beat on the flywheel, replace the whole thrust set with new parts.



Lynn E. Hanover

 

THank you very much sir!!!

Do you know where that pic is for the removal sequence of the tension bolts?

I hit the flywheel with a brass hammer and it still wont come off. Im gonna try and use a flywheel removal tool puller. ALso, how do i set the motor down on the front of it? I still have the oil pump housing on it.

 

Use the special Mazda flywheel tool or the Racing Beat version. Put the big nut back on but leave about 1/8" gap to the flywheel, so when the taper lets go the flywheel stays right there instead of jumping onto your foot.



If you have no engine stand, leave it flat on the work bench or on the floor.



When you start it back together, set the front iron on a pickle bucket sitting inside an old tire. By the time you get the rear iron back on you will be close to collapsing the bucket. Install two case bolts and lay the engine over gently onto the tire, and walk it onto the floor and complete assembly.



Buy and engine stand.





Lynn E. Hanover

 

Thanks again Lynn!

I do have an engine stand, i actually have almost every tool imaginable (dealership, not mazda).



Im still trying to find that page with the tension bolt pattern of removal.

 

I just take out the bottom two and then back and forth with the air gun until I run out of bolts.



Here is a picture from a Haynes Manual, and reversing the tightening order should do it just fine.



Lynn E. Hanover

 

BINGO!!!!! Thank you very much, thats waht i was looking for.



I dont know if i should make a seperate post but here goes, now that i have the front cover off i see the oil pump and chain, what is the next step?

 

The first thing to do is buy the overhaul DVD-R from http://www.rotaryaviation.com about 25 bucks and 2.50 for shipping. Then buy a Haynes or your favorite brand of repair manual from Autozone or whoever.



The conventional engine stand needs only a spacer built and two holes drilled into the flat face of the mounting surface, where the adjustible arms are now bolted on. The two big holes in the spark plug side of the front iron are the same size and thread as early Mazda lug bolts. Make a spacer to fit over those holes and space the iron far enough off the engine stand to clear the breather tube and casting on the center iron,

and there is your Mazda engine on a cheap Chinese engine stand. I built my own stand because I'm tall and cannot bend over to work anymore.



With the front case off you can remove the locking tab and nut on the oil pump sprocket and slide the sprocket off the pump while sliding the stack off of the crank. Lay the stack on its side and slip a piece of broom stick through the mess to keep it in order. After a few engines you will not need any clues to remember any of this. Be sure to get the little key from the oil pump shaft. Remove the oil pump. Remove the front counterweight, and keep the hardened washer in the back of the weight in the proper orientation. Slip another piece of broomstick through the weight and slip on the needle race. remove the 6 bolts from the thrust plate. Remove the plate, spacer and inner bearing and hardened inner washer. Place them all on the broomstick. From the engine side, tap the end of the stationary gear with a plastic hammer. Keep one hand on it so when it lets go it is not damaged in a fall. Remove the "O" ring and support washer (white plastic)from the oil passage on the front iron. There will be a new "O" ring in the kit, but maybe not the washer.





Lynn E. Hanover



The picture is the Hanovers from 100 years ago. Jessie's hat is the metering unit (Lucas) cover from 300 HP Cosworth engine in my friends Chevron B23. This car once belonged to Toni Cicalli. The spelling is suspect but it sounds like that.