Help Pick Porting
11-24-2005, 11:15 AM
#1
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Im sending my car away this winter to get a turn key job done.I don't have the time or tools to do it myself.I really want to but can't because im working so much and have a little daughter to look after now.All my time is taken.Anyway im getting these engine options done.3mm apex seal upgrade,corner seal spring upgrade,rotor housing cooling modification,polished rotors and maybe ceramic coated also.
What are the best apex seals to use when running nitrous?Im stuck as to what porting to get.I am deciding from these three port jobs.Street port (Extreme),Half bridge port and Full bridge port.This car will not be driven daily and won't see the road much.
What are the best apex seals to use when running nitrous?Im stuck as to what porting to get.I am deciding from these three port jobs.Street port (Extreme),Half bridge port and Full bridge port.This car will not be driven daily and won't see the road much.
11-24-2005, 05:17 PM
#2
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I wouldn't use 3 mm seals. Not needed.
I would use mazda apex seals.
I would forget about the polishing or cermanic coating. Your money is better spent using rx8 stationary gears front rear. rx8 3 window bearings.
You have a 90 TII? Are you anning upgrading the turbo? If not then jsut stick with a conservative street port like racing beat.
Those are my opinions and that is what i'm building my motor to. With FD oil pres regulators and webber jets for e-shaft, and maybe the front oil mod to get more oil to the front bearing...
I would use mazda apex seals.
I would forget about the polishing or cermanic coating. Your money is better spent using rx8 stationary gears front rear. rx8 3 window bearings.
You have a 90 TII? Are you anning upgrading the turbo? If not then jsut stick with a conservative street port like racing beat.
Those are my opinions and that is what i'm building my motor to. With FD oil pres regulators and webber jets for e-shaft, and maybe the front oil mod to get more oil to the front bearing...
11-24-2005, 06:07 PM
#3
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Originally Posted by Cheers!' post='781254' date='Nov 24 2005, 06:17 PM
I wouldn't use 3 mm seals. Not needed.
I would use mazda apex seals.
I would forget about the polishing or cermanic coating. Your money is better spent using rx8 stationary gears front rear. rx8 3 window bearings.
You have a 90 TII? Are you anning upgrading the turbo? If not then jsut stick with a conservative street port like racing beat.
Those are my opinions and that is what i'm building my motor to. With FD oil pres regulators and webber jets for e-shaft, and maybe the front oil mod to get more oil to the front bearing...
Thanks for your opinion it's greatly appreciated.
Why wouldn't you use 3mm seals?And the polishing don't cost much but the ceramic coating does.
Yes I own a 1990 Turbo II and yes I am planning on upgrading the turbo.
How much do the front & rear RX8 stationary gears cost and what's better about em?
11-24-2005, 08:04 PM
#4
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Originally Posted by 4RotorRocket' post='781261' date='Nov 24 2005, 07:07 PM
Thanks for your opinion it's greatly appreciated.
Why wouldn't you use 3mm seals?And the polishing don't cost much but the ceramic coating does.
Yes I own a 1990 Turbo II and yes I am planning on upgrading the turbo.
How much do the front & rear RX8 stationary gears cost and what's better about em?
because a wider seal has a larger contact area between the rotor housing and the seal edge. Meaning it does not seal as well. It also in theory produces more drag. If you detonate on the edge of the apex seal a 3 mm seal isn't going to help you. neither will a 5mm if they make such a thing.
For you to run a bridgeport or any other radical port you will be exceeding the design of the stock turbo. It will overspeed and choke. Meaning all that work making your nice ports will kill your stock turbo.
Lastly the new gears are hardned, and flow better oil to the bearings. combine that with new rx8 rotor bearings and it will be a nice setup
11-25-2005, 11:03 AM
#5
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i'm sure someone else will chime in here but, the drag racer fellows run 7's on street ports, why bother with a bridge?
3mm seals are a waste of time. polishing the rotor faces is prolly a good idea, its easy too, dunno if it helps though....
the trick to reliability isnt the trick motor, its keeping the temps in the right range, and making sure you've got enough fuel in there.
water temps should be 180f oil temps should be 160-180f.....
3mm seals are a waste of time. polishing the rotor faces is prolly a good idea, its easy too, dunno if it helps though....
the trick to reliability isnt the trick motor, its keeping the temps in the right range, and making sure you've got enough fuel in there.
water temps should be 180f oil temps should be 160-180f.....
11-25-2005, 05:03 PM
#6
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s' post='781357' date='Nov 25 2005, 12:03 PM
i'm sure someone else will chime in here but, the drag racer fellows run 7's on street ports, why bother with a bridge?
3mm seals are a waste of time. polishing the rotor faces is prolly a good idea, its easy too, dunno if it helps though....
the trick to reliability isnt the trick motor, its keeping the temps in the right range, and making sure you've got enough fuel in there.
water temps should be 180f oil temps should be 160-180f.....
More power / Top end
11-25-2005, 05:15 PM
#7
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Originally Posted by 4RotorRocket' post='781440' date='Nov 25 2005, 06:03 PM
More power / Top end
ok maybe you missed what he said
some guys are running in the 7s with street ports...just street ports.
dont even pretend like youre aiming for anywhere near 7s.
what is your power goal, what turbo you trying to spool? a hybrid stock turbo will choke on anything bigger then a decent street port and will cause you to lose power in the long run. so unless your gonna buy a 2k turbo or something a street port will fit you fine. plus, try finding someone to tune a b/p, a lot easier to do a street port.
kevin.
11-25-2005, 06:31 PM
#10
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lol, you can always spot those threads. its the "i'm comparing a t25 and a t51 which is better?"
and then after 5 "um those are not really even close"
you get the "i want a turbo with 57psi of boost at idle and 952hp@110,000 rpms, its mostly a street car...."
and then after 5 "um those are not really even close"
you get the "i want a turbo with 57psi of boost at idle and 952hp@110,000 rpms, its mostly a street car...."