Rotary Engine Building, Porting & Swaps All you could ever want to know about rebuilding and porting your rotary engine! Discussions also on Water, Alcohol, Etc. Injection

Help!!! Metal Filings In Oil Pan

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 02-20-2003, 06:41 PM
  #11  
Senior Member
 
pengaru's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: IL
Posts: 2,930
Default

yeah I suspected the bearing material, but thats alot of material in the photograph dude.



I suppose you could inpsect your turbos since they are part of the same oiling system but I think MAZDAROTARYPOWER is correct.
pengaru is offline  
Old 02-20-2003, 07:12 PM
  #12  
JLB
Member
 
JLB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 58
Default

Looks like what I found on an engine that someone had screwed up the thrust bearing on. I bought an engine from a junkyard (86 na) and stuck it my car. Ran great for a little while, then started knocking really bad at high rpm's. It was like someone was pounding on the engine with a sledgehammer. Shut it off and turned the engine over by hand - as I did I discovered the eccentric was free to move up and down about 1/8"!! Upon disassembly I found a crushed thrust bearing which damaged the front main bearing. It ran long enough to remove almost the entire bearing shell! And, it was still running when I tore it down...



Jason
JLB is offline  
Old 02-20-2003, 07:19 PM
  #13  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
2 HOTT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 140
Default

With the bearing or bearings being bad would that affect my core alot? If it was the bearings of the engine I would have to replace the eccentric shaft and stationary gear or just the stationary gear bearing I would still be better off rebuilding or going with a reman?
2 HOTT is offline  
Old 02-20-2003, 07:38 PM
  #14  
Senior Member
 
pengaru's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: IL
Posts: 2,930
Default

you don't know til you tear it down and inspect it.



how did it run before this point? if everything seemed fine you probably have a usable core.
pengaru is offline  
Old 02-20-2003, 07:49 PM
  #15  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
2 HOTT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 140
Default

Was running good and then I couldn't get it too start one morning and so I decided to tear it down for my single turbo conversion.
2 HOTT is offline  
Old 02-20-2003, 08:05 PM
  #16  
Senior Member
 
Midnightdriver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Reno,NV
Posts: 1,081
Default

I was a navy mechanic for 4 years and worked on helos for a while in the nat guard...and one of the first things I learned about metal flakes...silver is normal ware bronze copper color is not good.. lots of metal parts are steel or what not on the outside but have a copper or a light metal on the inside...think of a peanut m&m. thats one way auto shops get people hard is by pulling a pan and showing someone flakes that are from normal ware and saying that its not good....but in your case something is not good.
Midnightdriver is offline  
Old 02-21-2003, 08:56 PM
  #17  
Senior Member
 
93 R1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,867
Default

Definately tear down and rebuild the entire engine. You don't want that **** running through your new turbo that is spinning 100,000rpm.
93 R1 is offline  
Old 02-23-2003, 07:19 AM
  #18  
Senior Member
 
jspecracer7's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Okinawa, Japan
Posts: 4,928
Default

you'll have some metal shavings, but BRASS colored metal shavings are a bearing...and that's bad.
jspecracer7 is offline  
Old 02-23-2003, 04:26 PM
  #19  
Senior Member
 
HeffSpooled's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Rainy Seattle
Posts: 452
Default

Sounds like oil starvation to me. You'll probably find a rotor bearing that's toasted and you'll be lucky if the E-shaft survived. Did you find anything wrong with the oil metering system?
HeffSpooled is offline  
Old 02-23-2003, 04:53 PM
  #20  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
2 HOTT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 140
Default

Correct me if I am wrong but the oil metering pump only provides oil to the rotor housings and rotor faces not to any bearing surfaces. So I don't see how that would be a problem. But the oil metering pump is fine. I cut the oil filter in half and found no metal filings looks like nothing made it past the strainer. I have decided to go ahead and tear it down. I emailed Bruce Turrentine and he recommend to tear it down because it should be cheaper and better to fix it my self. So I will know more on monday or tuesday when I get a socket that will fit the flywheel nut.
2 HOTT is offline  


Quick Reply: Help!!! Metal Filings In Oil Pan



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:48 AM.