Flywheel Bolts
06-27-2004, 03:28 PM
#15
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Canada
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When I post info I post the highest rating in the FSM
FSM said the S4 counterweight 14mm nuts should be bolted down to a max of 45 ft/lbs
On the main pulley boss nut on the shaft at the front cover, FSM says up to 80 ft/lbs
The eccentric shaft flywheel nut (54mm) is listed at 340 ft/lbs
Oh yeah and the pressure plate was 25 ft/lbs I believe, I think I looked up the old FSM on the SA for that one cause I had the different plate (not that it mattered).. I can't remember though
FSM said the S4 counterweight 14mm nuts should be bolted down to a max of 45 ft/lbs
On the main pulley boss nut on the shaft at the front cover, FSM says up to 80 ft/lbs
The eccentric shaft flywheel nut (54mm) is listed at 340 ft/lbs
Oh yeah and the pressure plate was 25 ft/lbs I believe, I think I looked up the old FSM on the SA for that one cause I had the different plate (not that it mattered).. I can't remember though
06-27-2004, 04:15 PM
#16
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
There's noting worse than snapping a bolt head. I quoted RB's torque ratings for aftermarket flywheels and pressure plates. Since there is no such torque rating for an aftermarket flywheel in the FSM, I feel secure in providing RB's rating. As for the P plate, I'd still stick with 14 ft lbs just because they completely flatten the lock washers well before the torque wrench hits 14. It feels as if the bolts are stretching (don't wanna snap 'em off!).
Then again, the torque specs for the T2 stuff could infact be higher than '71-'92 NA specs. Anyone know for sure?
My '76 Cosmo FSM says 13-20 ft lbs for P plate bolts.
Perhaps you were quoting how much to torque the flex plate to the counterweight? I gotta tell you that several of my flex plate bolts on my Cosmo engine were over torqued and the threads had been stretched to the point where I couldn't use them to block off the OMP holes in the rotor housings. They were hard to remove, but luckily the counterwight's threads were undamaged. I bet one of their engine assemblers had too much sake the night before he built my engine. Man, I hope not. Luckily the RB flywheels come with new bolts.
As for the 19mm ****, I'd say 80 ft lbs is fine.
Then again, the torque specs for the T2 stuff could infact be higher than '71-'92 NA specs. Anyone know for sure?
My '76 Cosmo FSM says 13-20 ft lbs for P plate bolts.
Perhaps you were quoting how much to torque the flex plate to the counterweight? I gotta tell you that several of my flex plate bolts on my Cosmo engine were over torqued and the threads had been stretched to the point where I couldn't use them to block off the OMP holes in the rotor housings. They were hard to remove, but luckily the counterwight's threads were undamaged. I bet one of their engine assemblers had too much sake the night before he built my engine. Man, I hope not. Luckily the RB flywheels come with new bolts.
As for the 19mm ****, I'd say 80 ft lbs is fine.
06-27-2004, 04:27 PM
#17
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Canada
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I understand your points, but I'm not as afraid of sheering bolt heads as I am of wimpy torque specs making it come loose. But that's just my motive. Perhaps your components were aluminum? They would provide different specs for sure, aluminum is much easier to strip than steel.
But you have to torque things to spec using your head.
As far as I have learned in the past few years, you can generally get a feel for when you are "snug" and then torque from there - Everything I torqued I wasn't forcing the wrench an unlawful amount, just steady pressure within limits until it goes click. There always seems to be some type of element change when you start skipping threads from too much torque. The assmebly of my motor went flawlessly, Never stripped a bolt or had any feeling of "overtorque" while following FSM specs.
But you have to torque things to spec using your head.
As far as I have learned in the past few years, you can generally get a feel for when you are "snug" and then torque from there - Everything I torqued I wasn't forcing the wrench an unlawful amount, just steady pressure within limits until it goes click. There always seems to be some type of element change when you start skipping threads from too much torque. The assmebly of my motor went flawlessly, Never stripped a bolt or had any feeling of "overtorque" while following FSM specs.
06-27-2004, 04:36 PM
#18
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
Light steel flywheel. The aluminum flywheel has nuts on the back side for the P plate bolts.
Same here. I even cleaned the 10mm x 1.0 tension bolt threads in the front plate (Judge Ito recommends this). All bolts and nuts torqued down perfectly.
The only fasteners I torque by hand are intake, exhaust and engine to tranny bellhousing bolts. I've never stripped any of them either. Oh yeah, there are also motor mount nuts, starter bolts, well, the list goes on and on.
Same here. I even cleaned the 10mm x 1.0 tension bolt threads in the front plate (Judge Ito recommends this). All bolts and nuts torqued down perfectly.
The only fasteners I torque by hand are intake, exhaust and engine to tranny bellhousing bolts. I've never stripped any of them either. Oh yeah, there are also motor mount nuts, starter bolts, well, the list goes on and on.
06-27-2004, 04:41 PM
#19
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Fayetteville, Georgia
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I torqued the 19mm **** to 80 ft-lbs and the flywheel bolts to 28 ft-lbs. 28 seems kinda skimpy, but then again I have no experience with this stuff at all. I put threadlock on the big guy but hesitated with the flywheel bolts, is that a necessity? My thinking was, if I have problems with my clutch (since it's custom), I MIGHT have to mess around with the flywheel, so I didn't put any on. I haven't mounted the PP because I don't have any of the bolts I need.
I didn't mean to start a war, but thanks for the help, as always!
I didn't mean to start a war, but thanks for the help, as always!
06-27-2004, 04:57 PM
#20
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
Like I said, the torque specs may be different for T2 stuff. Give Racing Beat a call tomorrow and ask them if their T2 flywheel torque specs are different from NA specs, and also ask if they know if ACT flywheels can use the same torque specs as their in-house brand. They'll probably say yes. It's completely logical afterall (it's a flywheel Chris' sakes).
If you want to know something that I worry about, try the 32mm **** (it's not a bolt, it's a cap nut) on the front of a 20B. There are no FSM specs for the 20B at all. Fellow forum user 'now' and j9fd3s both think I got it tightened down enough, but I'm honestly still a little worried. All I can do is run the engine and see how it does. Kinda scary huh?
If you want to know something that I worry about, try the 32mm **** (it's not a bolt, it's a cap nut) on the front of a 20B. There are no FSM specs for the 20B at all. Fellow forum user 'now' and j9fd3s both think I got it tightened down enough, but I'm honestly still a little worried. All I can do is run the engine and see how it does. Kinda scary huh?