Flywheel
12-16-2004, 11:02 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 352
You have the nut off yet? If not it needs to come off. A BIG impact works best or a flywheel stopper and a LONG breaker bar. After that is off there are two methods to pop the flywheel loose. The one I like is to insert two bolts in the threaded holes near the center of the flywheel. Thread the bolts through the holes to press the flywheel off the e-shaft. Tighten them evenly and put a couple small pieces of scrap steel behind the bolts where the contact the outer hub of the rear main to keep from scaring it up. The other method I've heard of is to use a good size hammer and smack the flywheel while pulling on it. The idea is to create a ringing resonance in the wheel to vibrate it loose. I hate beating on stuff though because of the potential to damage the bearings.
12-16-2004, 11:11 AM
#3
Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 72
1. Take off flywheel retaining nut, this is about a 2 1/8 inch nut, and I used a socket from sears (about $30 to $50), an adapter so it would fit on my impact wrench, and my impact wrench.
2. on eather side of the main shaft there is two small bolt holes. You need a puller to get it off. Go get yourself a steering wheel puller (about $30), I got mine at one of the roving tool sale, where they sell you tools out of the back of a semi. The one from sears does not work, so measure the distance between these holes, and double check the puller before buying it. The bolts that I got with my puller kit did not fit, so I went to the local home despit racing association, and bought 2 machine bolts (about a dollar). When you have that, put the two bolts in the flywheel, and screw the lifting screw into the puller, use the pointy puller end, attach one impact wrench, and hit the trigger. If your bolts are strong enough, the flywheel will slowly be pressed off. If stuff starts to bend, which I have done before, stop. Breaking bolts in the holes is really expensive and frustrating.
I will get pictures tonight and post them.
2. on eather side of the main shaft there is two small bolt holes. You need a puller to get it off. Go get yourself a steering wheel puller (about $30), I got mine at one of the roving tool sale, where they sell you tools out of the back of a semi. The one from sears does not work, so measure the distance between these holes, and double check the puller before buying it. The bolts that I got with my puller kit did not fit, so I went to the local home despit racing association, and bought 2 machine bolts (about a dollar). When you have that, put the two bolts in the flywheel, and screw the lifting screw into the puller, use the pointy puller end, attach one impact wrench, and hit the trigger. If your bolts are strong enough, the flywheel will slowly be pressed off. If stuff starts to bend, which I have done before, stop. Breaking bolts in the holes is really expensive and frustrating.
I will get pictures tonight and post them.
12-16-2004, 11:17 AM
#4
Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 72
Originally Posted by C. Ludwig' date='Dec 16 2004, 09:01 AM
You have the nut off yet? If not it needs to come off. A BIG impact works best or a flywheel stopper and a LONG breaker bar. After that is off there are two methods to pop the flywheel loose. The one I like is to insert two bolts in the threaded holes near the center of the flywheel. Thread the bolts through the holes to press the flywheel off the e-shaft. Tighten them evenly and put a couple small pieces of scrap steel behind the bolts where the contact the outer hub of the rear main to keep from scaring it up. The other method I've heard of is to use a good size hammer and smack the flywheel while pulling on it. The idea is to create a ringing resonance in the wheel to vibrate it loose. I hate beating on stuff though because of the potential to damage the bearings.
When I took mine off, I did not need the stopper, I just cranked the imact wrench up and grabbed hold of the flywheel with my hand. I bought one from mazdatrix (http://www.mazdatrix.com/FTOOLS.HTM, $23) , and I think it will work pritty well.
12-19-2004, 04:55 PM
#9
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Crystal Lake, Illinois
Posts: 10
Well, I just took my 2 1/8" socket and slapped it on the 3/4" drive impact gun, and hit it once and it popped right off. Then I put the nut back on with ~3-4 threads grabbing so that the flywheel didn't fly off and break my nose, and slipped 2 pry bars behind the flywheel and just pushed as hard as I could and after a suprising *pop*, it hit the nut and just came right off. Unthread the nut and just slide the flywheel off. Getting it back on and torqued is tons easier with a flywheel stopper, though (I just put said prybar against the exhaust manifold and put the tip in one of the teeth of the flywheel (RB light steel) and had somebody else move the torque wrench (snap-on 3 foot 3/4" drive [use tall jack stands]).
12-19-2004, 08:29 PM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,108
Originally Posted by falcoms' date='Dec 19 2004, 05:55 PM
Well, I just took my 2 1/8" socket and slapped it on the 3/4" drive impact gun, and hit it once and it popped right off. Then I put the nut back on with ~3-4 threads grabbing so that the flywheel didn't fly off and break my nose, and slipped 2 pry bars behind the flywheel and just pushed as hard as I could and after a suprising *pop*, it hit the nut and just came right off. Unthread the nut and just slide the flywheel off. Getting it back on and torqued is tons easier with a flywheel stopper, though (I just put said prybar against the exhaust manifold and put the tip in one of the teeth of the flywheel (RB light steel) and had somebody else move the torque wrench (snap-on 3 foot 3/4" drive [use tall jack stands]).
Why didn't you use a giant log of firewood instead of the pry bars? A lot easier.