engine together. and now in the car

 

Hope you checked end float after having those irons lapped.

 

The end play is a function of spacer thickness. Grinding or laping the irons does not change the end play.



However, grinding and to a lesser extent lapping the irons does shorten the engine, by however much (total) material was removed.



So, the rear stationary gear moves that amount closer to the front stationary gear.



So, after the irons have been ground a few times, you must check to be sure that the front end of the rear main bearing is not touching the radius on the rear crank throw.



It is common practice to scrape away a bit of the very front of the overly, (about 1/8") and remove some bearing material from the front half of the bearing with some killed 600 silicone carbide paper and solvent. This to allow for crank flex when you scream the engine.



The factory shows the crank being ground smaller, but most people do have a dull pocket knife and some sandpaper but do not have a crankshaft grinder. I had a crankshaft grinder and still use a knife.



On the clutch cover choice, anything that will spin the tires from a start or on a gear change is enough clutch.

And that covers everything, including a stock cover. If you change the amount of grip at the rear such as drag slicks, wider tires, taller wheels and the like, then more clutch is called for. The downside of the stiffer clutch cover is early thrust bearing failure.



Sound familier?



Lynn E. Hanover

 

Endplay is also a matter of how worn the torrington bearings are, and some other factor that I thought was iron thickness.

I recently built an engine that needed an 8.55mm spacer, i would blame the newly resurfaced irons on that, I could have misunderstood your post Lynn, but the iron thickness must be a reason since the torrington bearings and all the other stuff is bolted to the front housing - Right????



Kim

 

update: engine is running. i put about 500 miles on it already. so far so good.