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Old Dec 2, 2005 | 05:24 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by banzaitoyota' post='782611' date='Nov 30 2005, 02:51 PM

please let Cindy out of the box


LMAO!



(hes talking about your box in the bottom picture thats labeled "cindy")



kevin.
Old Dec 4, 2005 | 05:26 PM
  #22  
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ROFL. Now I get it. I didn't even notice it. That's not even my box. LOL.



What a laugh.
Old Dec 4, 2005 | 05:26 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s' post='783233' date='Dec 2 2005, 01:07 PM

its around $300 new....


I know I called the dealer and check mazdatrix. I'm trying to find a used one.
Old Dec 11, 2005 | 08:09 PM
  #24  
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progress pics...



rotors with new bearings pressed in and side seals clearanced and new rotor oil seals with mazda o-rings









Old Dec 12, 2005 | 02:23 AM
  #25  
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vasoline works great for keeping thoes seals in.



its going to be funny when you pull the tape off
Old Dec 12, 2005 | 02:58 AM
  #26  
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I actually have vasoline sitting on that table
Old Dec 12, 2005 | 07:55 PM
  #27  
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I use ARP assembly lube to stick the side seals and corner seals in place, then a nice big rubberband to hold the apex seals to the rotor. This works remarkably well for longish periods of time.



After popping the rotor on, the rotor housing slides over the rotor with only a little bit of work. The rubber band gets cut at a rotor dish with a boxcutter, and generally smacks me in the belly.



A nice idea that doesn't work too well in the real world is to angle the eccentric shaft into the center housing first, and then lay them both in. It becomes a real trick to line up the two bearing surfaces while you're holding the side housing with one hand, enough so that the accepted method of holding the E-shaft up with one knee while finessing the center housing over it is actually easier.



I just realized, the eccentric shaft could be stabilized in the center housing if the second rotor were to be installed on it first. I just might try this on my next engine build.
Old Dec 13, 2005 | 09:54 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by heretic' post='785896' date='Dec 12 2005, 05:55 PM

I use ARP assembly lube to stick the side seals and corner seals in place, then a nice big rubberband to hold the apex seals to the rotor. This works remarkably well for longish periods of time.



After popping the rotor on, the rotor housing slides over the rotor with only a little bit of work. The rubber band gets cut at a rotor dish with a boxcutter, and generally smacks me in the belly.



A nice idea that doesn't work too well in the real world is to angle the eccentric shaft into the center housing first, and then lay them both in. It becomes a real trick to line up the two bearing surfaces while you're holding the side housing with one hand, enough so that the accepted method of holding the E-shaft up with one knee while finessing the center housing over it is actually easier.



I just realized, the eccentric shaft could be stabilized in the center housing if the second rotor were to be installed on it first. I just might try this on my next engine build.


yeah lol assemble the front of the center housing....
Old Dec 22, 2005 | 12:22 AM
  #29  
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got a used front housing and sent the other two to racing beat to get lapped. i'll update pictures when i get them.
Old Dec 22, 2005 | 12:27 AM
  #30  
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more goodies











exedy street clutch

hks t04e .60 1.15 - i might have to street port for that exhaust side.





u guys think 550-720 rtek 1.7 would do for now? only planning on running 10psi right now.



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