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Dry Sump Turbo Line?

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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 05:14 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Lynn E. Hanover' post='902786' date='Jun 26 2008, 03:51 PM
I would give it a try. The seals should be able to handle the lack of pressure on the back side. (like adding 14.7 pounds of oil pressure).



How much for the system?



Lynn E. Hanover


The price for the front plate from mazda comp is 2900.00



Thanks
Old Jun 29, 2008 | 10:57 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Lynn E. Hanover' post='902716' date='Jun 26 2008, 06:13 AM
In wet sumps the drain tube can be submerged below the oil level to prevent crank case pressure from returning to the turbo. So long as the crankcase pressure is in the normal range.


The Volkswagen 1.8t engine has a tiny oil return that goes right to the bottom of the oil pan. According to MacInnes, it should never work.



They do have oil consumption problems and have been known to blow turbo seals out if the oil is as little as 1/2 quart too high, so maybe it really is iffy engineering.





I had chance to work on something with the turbos mounted very low. Seven liters of LSX and that wasn't enough, so on went a pair of turbos mounted so down low that the outlets were a straight shot back to the car. The oil drains looked like -8 (!) running to an 2"x1"x12" oval pipe/scavenge manifold mounted under the front of the transmission, and a pair of -10 hoses went up from that to a dry-sump style scavenge pump mounted up on top of the engine, which dumped it back into the crankcase. Lots of plumbing under there, plus both turbos were watercooled, and the crossmember had been replaced with a tubular unit just to make room for all of the compressor-side ducting.



I take it that the MFR drysump setup doesn't have external scavenge lines?
Old Jul 11, 2008 | 04:06 PM
  #13  
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How about not drilling your motor or Frontcover at all ?

You could drain the turbo-oil into a small tank and then have an oilpump pump it into the drysump tank.
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