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Dry Sump Turbo Line?

Old Jun 25, 2008 | 08:49 PM
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Hello



Can some one tell me were will be a good place to tap for a turbo oil return line on the front dry sump cover?



Thank you
Old Jun 25, 2008 | 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by To_slow' post='902653' date='Jun 25 2008, 06:49 PM
Hello



Can some one tell me were will be a good place to tap for a turbo oil return line on the front dry sump cover?



Thank you


You have a real Mazda front cover and dry sump kit? Wow.



Drill through the front rotor housing near the pan rail. Install a dash 4 or 6 bulkhead fitting. On the inside screw on a B nut and sleeve and a bit of aluminum tubing that ends beside the scavenge pickup. The turbo drain will alway be in a low pressure area.



If your scavenge line runs to the rear of the engine, adjust the pieces as required.



Lynn E. Hanover
Old Jun 26, 2008 | 07:14 AM
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Good idea going through the rotor housing leg. But you should use at least a -10 for a turbo oil drain.
Old Jun 26, 2008 | 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by C. Ludwig' post='902707' date='Jun 26 2008, 05:14 AM
Good idea going through the rotor housing leg. But you should use at least a -10 for a turbo oil drain.




I suggested going through the leg to maintain the value of the factory dry sump front cover.



A dash 10 through the leg might be a bit crowded, then a dash 10 B nut and sleeve inside the flat bottom sump even more so.



One advantage of the dry sump is that it overscavenges the sump, and you will see air flowing from the sump tank into the engine through the crank case vent hose. So, the whole sump is operating below the local air pressure. Placing the drain tube next to the scavenge pickup will have that location being the lowest pressure available in the engine.



So the large hose sizes typical of a wet sump setup is not required.



The bearing speeds in the turbo spin the oil into an air filled goop that just does not drain as well as just hot oil. Multi grades are worse. So, the typical turbo has a much larger drain than a pressure feed. Also, most turbos are not exposed to the full oil pressure by having a restrictor in front of the bearings.



In wet sumps the drain tube can be submerged below the oil level to prevent crank case pressure from returning to the turbo. So long as the crankcase pressure is in the normal range.



Those Mazda factory dry sump systems are rare. Don't let it go cheap.



Lynn E. Hanover



Yes it is aluminum, and no you can't have one........yet.
Old Jun 26, 2008 | 09:19 AM
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My first choice is to tap in here right in the scavenge inlet. Makes sense to do it this way. It is the same purpose if i let it fall on the sump plate and have it picked up buy the scavenge tubes.





Or my second choice is to driill here...







Full engine pic....



Old Jun 26, 2008 | 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by To_slow' post='902717' date='Jun 26 2008, 07:19 AM
My first choice is to tap in here right in the scavenge inlet. Makes sense to do it this way. It is the same purpose if i let it fall on the sump plate and have it picked up buy the scavenge tubes.





Or my second choice is to driill here...







Full engine pic....







The real thing, and on a 20B as well. your idea is fine but I have resevations. The scavenge pump suction will be less than constant. Depending on if it just picked up a big dose of oil or is just sucking air.



When it picks up a dose, it could pull the drain side of the turbo well below ambient. I have no idea if this is a problem. The other is that you would reduce the value of the front cover. Anything will work is the likely answer.



Is the pressure section big enough to make 90-100 PSI in a 20B?



Lynn E. Hanover
Old Jun 26, 2008 | 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Lynn E. Hanover' post='902719' date='Jun 26 2008, 07:31 AM
The real thing, and on a 20B as well. your idea is fine but I have resevations. The scavenge pump suction will be less than constant. Depending on if it just picked up a big dose of oil or is just sucking air.



When it picks up a dose, it could pull the drain side of the turbo well below ambient. I have no idea if this is a problem. The other is that you would reduce the value of the front cover. Anything will work is the likely answer.



Is the pressure section big enough to make 90-100 PSI in a 20B?



Lynn E. Hanover
Well the dry sump cover is made for the 20b with bigger sump gears and enlarged galleys.
Old Jun 26, 2008 | 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by To_slow' post='902727' date='Jun 26 2008, 09:11 AM
Well the dry sump cover is made for the 20b with bigger sump gears and enlarged galleys.


Sounds like a winner.



Lynn E. Hanover
Old Jun 26, 2008 | 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Lynn E. Hanover' post='902738' date='Jun 26 2008, 10:45 AM
Sounds like a winner.



Lynn E. Hanover


Lynn what do you think, drain the turbo oil in the scavenge inlet will be yay or nay?



Thank for all your help Lynn .



If some off you are considering the 20b dry sump cover here is the Mazda comp part nr ....0000-01-9315 ...
Old Jun 26, 2008 | 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by To_slow' post='902757' date='Jun 26 2008, 02:50 PM
Lynn what do you think, drain the turbo oil in the scavenge inlet will be yay or nay?



Thank for all your help Lynn .



If some off you are considering the 20b dry sump cover here is the Mazda comp part nr ....0000-01-9315 ...


I would give it a try. The seals should be able to handle the lack of pressure on the back side. (like adding 14.7 pounds of oil pressure).



How much for the system?



Lynn E. Hanover

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