Dysfnctnl85

I'm trying to figure out the right seal for my application, and it's increasingly difficult to decide, especially after reading topic after topic describing Mazda/Atkins/RA/Ianetti/[insert company here] seals, how they wear down the housing, what happens when you detonate while using them, and how likely they are to hold power for an extended amount of time.



The thing is, in terms of what an engine builder would think, I have no clue what my application is. I mean, I know what I want to do with the car: enjoy it as an occasional daily (like Fridays or something, you know) and evenings on the weekend. I wouldn't mind taking it to the drag strip every now and then, and even to Road Atlanta on open track days or something like that. It needs to be streetable, but not so streetable that it's lame on the track. So maybe this is just an ideal and really can't be done...haha.



At any rate, my motor is getting new oil seals, apex seals, and FD exhaust sleeves. I might as well make the engine better while getting the oil problem fixed.



So what say you? Should I shell out a massive amount of money for ceramic seals? Should I just put OEM seals in and have to worry about beating on the engine (after a thorough breaking-in)?



I know this is a religious debate, but this decision is pretty important and I could find a comprehensive guide to choosing the right apex seals .

banzaitoyota

You must first :

1. DEFINE the use of the engine/NA/Turbo/N20??/Street/Track

2.Followed by budget for engine\

3. Housings: NEW/USED/RECOATED?

4.Followed by the amount of time between tearbowns/inspections/rebuilds

.



Answer/define those objectives and the choices become clearer.

John

j9fd3s

redline rpms, hp, ecu/fuel setup help too

Dysfnctnl85

1. Turbo, Street & Track Use

2. Don't break the bank.

3. Used Housings, will know what condition they are in when I get the oil seals replaced in a few weeks.

4. Um, whatever is reasonable? 50K miles?

Dysfnctnl85

I don't care where the redline is, it's not strictly a track car so it doesn't need to be 10K or anything crazy. I would prefer a less peaky powerband in favor of a broader powerband over the entire upper range of the engine. I hope that makes sense.



As for HP, I was originally looking for 350whp, but now that I have FD sleeves, I was hoping for more in the range of 400-450.



I'm using a Haltech E6X ECU and currently have a Walboro 255, 550 primaries, and 1680 secondaries.

j9fd3s

ok heres my NON-definitive guide.



you're looking for a seal that will work on used a housing (we'll assume nice used ones), under say 8500rpms, you've got plenty of fuel, and wants to stay together for a long time.



i'm gonna say you should use stock mazda seals. they live fine up to 8500, last a long time (unless you get into detonation, but then everything breaks here too), and most importantly they seal well, and are made well.



my second choice i think would be the RA seals for a turbo, they are harder on the housings, and need to be at least looked at to make sure they are in specs



atkins isnt as turbo friendly, but are easier on the housings than the RA seals



hurleys are junk



iannetti's are more for endurance racing, they are a lot more than you need in some areas and will still break if you get into detonation



did i miss anything?

DJ Rotor

You missed carbon seals?



which, as I understand, are just the thing for n/a, and have no place in a turbo motor.

j9fd3s

yeah, no place in a street car, they are 1 peice, so they dont seal very well

Dysfnctnl85

So stock Mazda seals = 2mm?

DJ Rotor

All the newer ones are 2mm, yes.