Cleaning Engine Parts
#2
to get the really thick gunk off, a razor blade works really well, then you get to start scrubbing with your choice of solvent and a brush. use hot water and a pressure washer if you can, the hotter it is, the easier the cleaning.
#4
Purple Power. Try it! It's available at Wal Mart and some of the chain auto stores. Cheaper than Simple Green, biodegradable, and flat kicks ***. Soak carboned rotors in it at full strength. Come back after a day later and a light brushing with a soft brush is all the required to have them squeaky clean. I do all other parts first in kerosene to cut the heavy oil off them and then do a final wash in 50% diluted Purple Power. Word of caution. Buy a pair of dishwashing gloves for use with this stuff unless you want to experience a chemical peal on your hands. It will immediately remove the oils from your skin and you'll be left with one less layer of skin.
#5
I always use kerosene and brass wire brushes. Works wonders. For rotors, I soak them in kerosene for a day, then dry them with compressed and and scrape the dry carbon off. Then take a wire brush to it to finish it off.
#6
Purple power!!! Then clean off with hot water blow dry and ur done! One thing I noticed if u soak the rotors it seams to take the grey bearing coating off a tad exposing the brass underneath, so soak if u are going to replace bearings (only does it if u soak 4 a day or more) if u use it on aluminum (don’t soak 5-6 sleeves) parts don’t let it dry before u wash it off it will corrode the surface!See pics whats in the bucket did 10 rotor's all the nuts and bolts from 5 core motors and is still going strong!
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#9
For manifolds and housings sand blasting with glass bead works wonders. Take care around sealing surfaces because blasting will roughen up smooth areas a bit. Then make sure to do a really good job cleaning to get all the sand out. After a good blow dry your parts will look better than brand new.
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