Ceramic Apex seals, yeah or nay?
#11
Wow, that is nice that you had that connection and were able to work a trade out!
I want to try the ceramic seals too, but I am busy breaking everything else it seems Last rebuild went ~20,000 miles until an EGT probe melted off and stiuck a corner seal- causing stuck sideseals and basically stuffing my 3mm apex slot rotors I was going to use for 1 piece 3mm ceramics.
Latest motor; didn't torque intermediate housing coolant drain plug when rebuilding (doh) and lost it part way up the hillclimb. It got hot and I kept it idling the whole time back down to the pits with NO coolant. Let it cool slowly by not opening the hood and raced it the next day! Motor seems fine. Perhaps the 720cc primarys at full pulse width (coolant correction map) helped cool it a bit? I was hoping that rich would stop the motor when I made the map...
Now, lost the front housing stationary gear locating dowel pin and sucked it into the oil pump. Luckily everything is fine except the oil pump and dowel pin. Doh, could have raced it this weekend if I would have taken it apart sooner.
It seems scary to risk new housings and ceramic seals until I figure out how to keep it together with the junk parts I am using now...
At least I am not repeating my mistakes :P
I want to try the ceramic seals too, but I am busy breaking everything else it seems Last rebuild went ~20,000 miles until an EGT probe melted off and stiuck a corner seal- causing stuck sideseals and basically stuffing my 3mm apex slot rotors I was going to use for 1 piece 3mm ceramics.
Latest motor; didn't torque intermediate housing coolant drain plug when rebuilding (doh) and lost it part way up the hillclimb. It got hot and I kept it idling the whole time back down to the pits with NO coolant. Let it cool slowly by not opening the hood and raced it the next day! Motor seems fine. Perhaps the 720cc primarys at full pulse width (coolant correction map) helped cool it a bit? I was hoping that rich would stop the motor when I made the map...
Now, lost the front housing stationary gear locating dowel pin and sucked it into the oil pump. Luckily everything is fine except the oil pump and dowel pin. Doh, could have raced it this weekend if I would have taken it apart sooner.
It seems scary to risk new housings and ceramic seals until I figure out how to keep it together with the junk parts I am using now...
At least I am not repeating my mistakes :P
#13
Whoops
Originally Posted by iox106' post='884123' date='Oct 3 2007, 05:07 PM
How much of a discount do you get from Mazdaspeed?
Would they give the discount for a car thats not Mazda but has a rotary in it?
Would they give the discount for a car thats not Mazda but has a rotary in it?
#14
Has anybody used or know anything about these seals?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...sid=p2759.l1259
TIA
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...sid=p2759.l1259
TIA
#15
Originally Posted by greendotracing' post='901511' date='Jun 5 2008, 09:48 AM
Has anybody used or know anything about these seals?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...sid=p2759.l1259
TIA
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...sid=p2759.l1259
TIA
Those seems to look like the RA Classic seals , If they are the one's they are not ceramic .
#16
Originally Posted by 13BT_Starlet' post='903519' date='Jul 3 2008, 06:29 PM
Those seems to look like the RA Classic seals , If they are the one's they are not ceramic .
There should be two springs for each seal if real Mazda ceramics. As far as use goes, there is nothing better at all if you can afford them. Every serious race engine has ceramics.
It is a bolt on 5 HP on top of any other seal. A must to get to 11,000 or more RPM. The ceramics look kind of greenish grey. Carbons are far less strong but nearly as light and do not wear the housings. They use a single spring.
Great in NA engines. Light enough for huge revs. Low drag compared to steel, but not close to ceramics drag wise.
Lynn E. Hanover
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