Bad rebuild
05-13-2007, 09:51 PM
#11
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 14
Originally Posted by BOTTLEFED' post='871629' date='May 13 2007, 01:23 AM
I'm not sure of the oil changes but he claims the breakin was preformed by the book.
And last, the probable cause of the problems. The seal has broken through to the water jacket and the iron lip is gone. My question is, was this something that happened during the rebuild or from something else? Also, what else should I check for/replace that could have been damged by this?
Hmmm, seen a few of these with the orangish aftermarket Teflon Encapsulated orings.
In the pic - Is the outer oring iron lip broken through as well?
Some of the iron grooves walls have very thin/weak sections or corrosion and are more susceptible to this.
These orings have a much higher coefficient of thermal expansion than the irons and can expand with a lot of force.
I suspect the oring diameter or thickness was just too large.
Any chance you could measure the thickness of the orangish oring with a micrometer?
05-13-2007, 10:21 PM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 524
Originally Posted by trydis7' post='871708' date='May 13 2007, 06:51 PM
Hmmm, seen a few of these with the orangish aftermarket Teflon Encapsulated orings.
I suspect the oring diameter or thickness was just too large.
Any chance you could measure the thickness of the orangish oring with a micrometer?
The factory O-rings are also orange, and if you look carefully, you can see that it is not an O-ring, but a multi-layered square ring. In other words, it's a factory piece.
05-13-2007, 11:15 PM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: CT
Posts: 1,345
the broken water seal wall is just deterioration of the steel. if you dont change your coolant and overheat the engine that can cause premature failure. this is almost normal on high milage engines. weather they tried to rebuild it the fact that that wall was already broken and just used new water seals, or if this happend shortly after the rebuild is hard to guess. i would guess, since this is a fresh rebuild, that they rebuilt it with the damage already done to the housing and sold the engine beofre it started having problems. sorry to hear you got a bum engine 
05-14-2007, 01:46 AM
#15
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Pocatello, ID
Posts: 39
Originally Posted by hsmidy' post='871691' date='May 13 2007, 04:36 PM
get a flat surface(must be true or true enoff) and use a straight edge and some feeler gauges to check if ya apex seals are warped
05-14-2007, 01:56 AM
#16
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Pocatello, ID
Posts: 39
Originally Posted by trydis7' post='871708' date='May 13 2007, 06:51 PM
Hmmm, seen a few of these with the orangish aftermarket Teflon Encapsulated orings.
In the pic - Is the outer oring iron lip broken through as well?
Some of the iron grooves walls have very thin/weak sections or corrosion and are more susceptible to this.
These orings have a much higher coefficient of thermal expansion than the irons and can expand with a lot of force.
I suspect the oring diameter or thickness was just too large.
Any chance you could measure the thickness of the orangish oring with a micrometer?
One of my hypotheses is that, since there was an overuse of sealant everywhere else, that maybe to much was used to hold the seal in place during assembly.
05-14-2007, 02:16 PM
#19
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Pocatello, ID
Posts: 39
I tried to measure the thickness of the inner oring but it split. It seems to have a grayish coating on the orange seal. It is square, unlike the encapsulated seals.
Also, a possible cause for the blowout was that the seal was twisted where the failure occurred.
Also, a possible cause for the blowout was that the seal was twisted where the failure occurred.
