pp4rtr

hey, i think we are having some trouble picturing the whole thing, and i think you are under the impression we are using almost two completely seperate motors. this is not true. we are taking the waterpump and dist housing off the rear motor andthe iorn face of the front cover on the rear motor will be adapted via a 3/8 piece of alu to the front motor. this should eliminate much of the need for the inch thich alu at the bottom of the motor.



ok, were you saying that we need two reluctor wheels? as described above, we woulden't really have room for the second reluctor wheel. but, if i am understanding you in saying that you have a reluctor wheel with one peice of iorn and the two pickups 180 appart which, this should work, correct? (that is if the motors are 180 appart) could you double the number of pickups and make the motor 90 degree phase with 90 deg. between the pickups? i think so...



and for the msd boxes, could you replace them with the insides of an HEI? this would cost much less, and be more compact. what are the chrysler amplifiers you speak of?

ok, where would i find such a starter?



i guess that is it, tahanks!!!

Lynn E. Hanover

The reluctor wheel for the front half of the engine is mounted to the front pulley. On the face of that wheel I mounted a Mr. Gasket degree wheel to make timing easy. That aluminum wheel has an iron nail pressed through the edge, so that some of the nail is exposed.



A pick up coil from any Chrysler distributor is mounted on a bracket on the drivers side of the engine, so that when the engine is at the firing point for number one (20 to 25 degrees BTDC) the iron nail is adjacent to the coil. These pickups look just like the Mazda pickup, but are just a bit bigger, and cost about 5 bucks.



The pick up for the number two housing is now located on the exact opposite side from the nail (180 degrees). So another bracket on the passenger side, with that pick up adjacent to the point on the degree wheel 180 degrees from the nail.



So, when the nail passes the drivers side pickup, the number one housing fires both plugs.

When the nail passes the passenger side pickup, the number two housing fires both plugs.



Move the pickup coils on the brackets to adjust the timing.



That takes care of housings one and two.





Do the same thing on the rear two housings, but mount the (single) reluctor on the flywheel.



With the number three rotor at the firing point, mount the pickup coil in a convieniant location keeping in mind that 180 degrees away you have to mount another. Back the engine up 20 degrees and mark the flywheel for the reluctor location. Turn the engine 180 degrees (forward or backward it dosen't matter) and mount the pickup for housing 4 beside the mark on the flywheel where you will be mounting the reluctor.



Each pickup triggers one rotor housing (both plugs).



The accuracy of the ignition is the best it can ever get. Formula One engines use the flywheels to get a timing mark, because the bigger the diameter of the wheel, the more accurate it can be.



The amplifiers and pickups are available at any parts store. Any 70s Chrysler product. The real expensive one is actually an MSD. There are two cheap ones. The older has to have a resister with 4 connectors. The later one has to have a resister with 2 connectors. The resisters are about 5 bucks. The wiring diagrams are in every Motors manual. Go to the library.



If you get it built and still cannot figure it out, Ship it here and I will do the ignition system for a 12 pack of Coors light.



Lynn E. Hanover

Shane.Trammell

ok i know this sounds very simple compared to all of this other stuff but here it is. you take the two motorsand put them side by side in a parallel manner. then you can run individual ingnitions and intakes and everything for the actual running part of the deal. then you have a custom rear housing built that is one piece that would bolt to both motors, therefore joining the motors as one. you then have gears in this custom rear housing that turn a central gear that turns a central flywheel. you have this housing fitted on the rear to connect directly to the bell housing as a regular engine would. its all the same from there. you could also run a 4 rotor ignition haltech or something with this set up. the only prob i see with this design is the size and the exhaust manifold or header that will be on the inside, i think there would be enough space between to fit a header in though. also there could be a prob with heat and you would have to run a very very large radiator with a bunch of fans. what do you guys think??

pp4rtr

DUDE!! where are you located? hehe well, i think we should do fine, but i am confused about the wiring. i understand that you have the pickup next to the reluctor wheel, then does it go directly to an amplifier? and from there straight to the coils? taht would be amazingly simple. i think we will end upo using some cbr 600 coil packs (total of 4 coils, 8 wires.) or DSM coil packs. i really like this idea, however i am concerned about what the timing curve "should" look like on a crazy motor like this.

this moroe will be peripheral ported, and about 10k redline. i think i talked to Yaw about this issue, and he runs full advance on his race motors..... any clarification on this issue would be much appriciated.



also, where would i find that strater?



hey, thanks a lot for your time so far!

Shane.Trammell

you could also run a 4 rotor ignition haltech or something with this set up. i guess it would also not be very fun to change spark plugs on the inside either

Lynn E. Hanover

Canal Winchester Ohio just SE of Columbus.



There is no timing curve. A Pport is going to idle at 1,800 to 2,200 RPM. All of the curve would be "IN" by 2,000 RPM anyway, so you don't need a curve or a distributor.



The wiring diagram for the Chrysler stuff is in the library.



The hookup is dead simple.



The starter can be ordered through any parts store. I get mine through AutoZone.



There are two top starters. Get the smaller one.



For 10,000 RPM you will need lightened rotors and counter weights and hardened stationary gears. Very pricey. Get it running first. Then hop it up.From a manual trans RX-2 or 3. Have them check on that for you. I order it one day, I pick it up the next.



No special ignition coils (other than double ended) are required. Go cheap GM replacement.



Lynn E. Hanover