so i brought a rx2 and the coolent seal blew took me a while to figure that out lol.



so last night i pulled the engine and tore it down being very careful not to damage the seals.





after much stressing thinking the engine is a dud it looks great.. housings are perfect no grooving on the plates all bearings are good one has a small bit of wear. all the seals look good one is questionable all the springs are questionable so tonight ill do a though measure of everything with the fsm hope for the best.



i have a few questions on what i can use for replacement parts.



assuming my side seals are worn is it possible i can use fb rx7 seals and just grind to fit.

will fb rx7 side seal springs work for both inner and outer.

will fb rx7 coolent seals inner and outer work?

how about the oil control seals

corner seal springs??

are the dowel seals the same? looks like ill need a extra 4 for the extra oil passage.



any info on what i can use will be great..



i would like to use a fb electric dizzy but he bf front cover is different bolt pattern has any one modded the dual dizzy cover??





once everything is together and im ready to build i would like to port the motor to match the bolt on parts i have.

what would be ideal for my set up



i have a rb 465 holley,with blue pump and reg also a road race rb header to a collector out a muffler think its 2 1/2" exhaust also have a msd box triggering a fc leading coil.





will post pics of stuff in a while



thanks

chris

 

omg what a mess see all the black on the drivers side that me deflooding my engine 100 times lol..

[attachment=46802:dirty mess.JPG]



yanked out yay..

[attachment=46804:just pulled.JPG]



tear down work bench lol

[attachment=46809:tear down work bench.JPG]



all 4 of these oil seals were pinched like that

[attachment=46806:look at the piniched seal.JPG]



look at the milky fluid that was in the motor fogures why my plug got wet lol

[attachment=46814:CIMG0127.JPG]



both housings look this good i was so happy.

[attachment=46807erfect.JPG]



how i layout my seals i tape them to the paper i punched dots on the rotors 1 2 3 so i dont get mixed up..

[attachment=46805:layout.JPG]



fornt rotor seals

[attachment=46803:front rotor.JPG]



damaged seal who thinks i can use it i have a feeling im ok but would like second opinions.

[attachment=46801:damage.JPG]



rear rotor seals

[attachment=46808:rear rotor.JPG]



i would like opinions on these stains from coolent on my irons.i tryed cleaning it off with brake cleaner but it seems soaked in?

[attachment=46812:water damage 2.JPG]



werid pattern what could that be from?

[attachment=46813:werid wear..JPG]



last picture tear down finished 3am tuesday lol



cheers

chris

[attachment=46808:rear rotor.JPG]

 

well it turns out the dark areas on the irons are actually pitting which is a real bummer was looking forward to build this old engine. so now i will be selling the housings and rotating asembly any one interested pm me.

 

well it turns out the dark areas on the irons are actually pitting which is a real bummer i didnt really see it until i used my led blue flash light its hard to see with yellow bulbs. was looking forward to build this old engine so this car will be parked and a carbd 13b will be in its future. so now i will be selling the housings and rotating asembly any one interested pm me.

 

The pits are of no concern. Won't hurt a thing. Run over the rions with an orbital sander and 80 grit paper. Then 320 wet or dry paper and kerosine. To get the big lumps off.



Then use valve grinding compound and run the front plate against the front side of the center plate, and lap finnish both irons at once. You can rig a drill press up to do this if you have one that can run very slowly, or use a vertical mill. Makes a great looking iron. Won't take long as the RX-2 probably didn't have Nitrided irons.



The pits in the apex seals won't hurt anything either. Just be sure they are smooth. Use wet or dry paper and solvent or kerosine. The water seal "O" rings often look like that with a kink. New seals will do the same after many years. They still don't leak. A electronic distributor might fit the front cover. I don't know, but the 84 an later front cover will probably fit the front iron. The problems are that the bell housing pattern is smaller than later engines.



So if you swap in a later engine you need an RX-4 belhousing to fit the older gearbox and the newer engine. Or you can build the newer engine with the early rear iron, that will fit your belhousing. You must plug one or two case bolt holes that are not used on newer engines. No bigdeal at all. I have done all of those things.



Here is a Renesis iron that has been lapped against another iron.



Lynn E. Hanover

 

side seals and springs are the same 68-85



corner seal springs are the same (wire type) 68-91, not sure if the later ones will fit a 6mm apex seal



rotor oil seals are the same 68-now, and you should update to the latest set



corner, and apex seals are unique to the 6mm seal engines. as are the apex springs. i know i have some new apex seal springs.



the eshaft and bearings are the same.



the stat gears were updated in the 70's, if you have the old style gears you should find a set of 80's gears



if you need housings i have a couple of new ones, and plenty of good used ones

 

I am also thinking of rebuilding my twin dizzy 12a. Will the seal kits that say only 74 and up work on these? I cant really find any parts for this engine.

 

I also have a good twin dizzy motor form a 72 rx2... Thought about doing a PP on it. Not sure if i want to do it, or sell it.

 

Hum. Well my car was pulled from a junkyard and hasn't ran in almost 30 years based on the last time it was last registered. I had to get a new title for it too. It's probably toast but I'd prefer to rebuild rather than buy a new one.

 

The apex seals with chips just need a pas over the side of a grind stone to remove the chipped surface. This must leave a uniform surface all across the seal. One side is fine. The carbon seals are the very best for chrome wear.



That rear iron may bo too far gone to repair with sanding and lapping, however, if you can find a shop with a surface grinder you can have this iron reduced until the pits are nearly all gone. A slow finish cut, then orbital sand flat with course silicone carbid paper and kerosene. There was no Nitriding back then, so nothing to worry about there.



This will move the rear iron foward by the amount removed in grinding. So dummy the engine with the thrust set assembled with a few screws, the crank and the rear stationary installed. This to be sure that the rear main bearing does no touch the radius on the crank. Not usually the case but if it has been rebuilt or a bearing has been installed

just a hair off, it happens. Check for bearing oil holes lining up with stationarey gear oil drillings.



Study and understand how the thrust assembly works. Lots of engines are lost during assembly.



Lynn E. Hanover