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6 Flat Corner Seals

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Old 04-25-2005, 10:29 PM
  #11  
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^ Wouldn't I have heard a noise (if a nut or bolt fell in the runners) when it got stuck? All I heard was the compression loss ...whoosh, whoosh, whoosh.
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Old 04-25-2005, 11:29 PM
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[quote name='GoRacer' date='Apr 25 2005, 11:29 PM']^ Wouldn't I have heard a noise (if a nut or bolt fell in the runners) when it got stuck? All I heard was the compression loss ...whoosh, whoosh, whoosh.

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you won't hear it until its gone and shot out the engine....
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Old 05-02-2005, 11:21 AM
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I am wondering how you broke this car in? Did you drive it like a grandma for 2000 miles? Cuz thats what the carbon buildup looks like. Also looks like your still injecting oil. Dont like premix?



Did you get a clearence sheet with the engine? If so what did it say for the blown rotor?



Off the cuff here is one possible story.



Car was lugged arround for the break in with oil injection which builds up shitloads of carbon. This fills the clearences between movable parts on the rotors. It also creates hot spots in the combustion chamber making combustion even more chaotic than usual.



You saw that your breakin was over and wanted to play. You got on it and the engine poped becuse the movable parts were "stuck" with carbon packing all the clearences and you had hot spots on your rotor. ping ping BANG



my 2 cents.



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Old 05-02-2005, 12:09 PM
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I think detonation. You won't be able to get those corner seals out without screw driver to the rear of corner seal. I've had a few motors do that...mainly detonation that pinched the corner seal tips.



Also what GMON said could very well have happened. But was it ONLY the front or both rotors?
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Old 05-02-2005, 12:41 PM
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[quote name='j9fd3s' date='Apr 18 2005, 05:39 AM']lot of times the rotor being bent when the apex seals breal cause the corner seals to be stuck

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Bingo.



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Old 05-07-2005, 05:17 PM
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[quote name='GMON' date='May 2 2005, 08:21 AM']I am wondering how you broke this car in? Did you drive it like a grandma for 2000 miles?

>>broke in perfectly for 1500mi. 500mi after front 1/2 blew cause CRX was broken. All rpms and speeds according to how I was told. The same as my GSXR and that was the tightest engine my mechanic ever seen.



Cuz thats what the carbon buildup looks like.

>>It's possible the lucas oil additive is what you see. I thined it out with 5-w20 but it looks like it did not burn clean. There was crap stuck on the inside of the housing just below the exhaust port. It was hard to clean, felt like tar.



Also looks like your still injecting oil. Dont like premix?

>>yes, why would I remove it. That's a hassle for a street car and what if you run out of premix at 2am.



Did you get a clearence sheet with the engine? If so what did it say for the blown rotor?

No, I have no idea what that is. it was rebuilt at Mazdatrix. I was under teh assumption John would do the engine but i'm not shure if he even assisted with it.



Car was lugged arround for the break in with oil injection which builds up shitloads of carbon.

Car was driven as a N/A without boost 500mi, then 5lbs @1000mi, then 10lbs@1500. 3krps, then 5krpms, then redline at 1500k mi, etc.



You saw that your breakin was over and wanted to play. You got on it and the engine poped becuse the movable parts were "stuck" with carbon packing all the clearences and you had hot spots on your rotor. ping ping BANG

[b]>>yes/no. there should have been nothing wrong with redline at end of break in. There was never any pin ping banq only whoosh whoosh whoosh as all three side lost compression then no power.



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[quote name='jspecracer7' date='May 2 2005, 09:09 AM']I've had a few motors do that...mainly detonation that pinched the corner seal tips. But was it ONLY the front or both rotors?
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>>Looks like the 2nd peice of the two peice oem seals pinched and broke off because of the chip on the rotor where it would be. Only the front was destroyed. The rear was 7-7-7 allthough I would have been alot happier if it was 9-9-9 but supposedly compression gets better after break in. I don't know but I would think it should have been at least all 8's on the rear.



I'm ready to throw the car in the trash. i've spent just as much money as I would have buying a Z06 that I couldn't afford. I'm ready to switch to 4x4's. I've even looked at 4door sedans. **** it, just might get a Yamaha R1 and strap on dual NOS tanks and jump over the moon. If I blow another engine then either I switch to the dark side with a LT2 or get a 06 WRX Sti ...with twin NOS tanks and jump over the moon.
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Old 10-12-2005, 11:59 PM
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I have a rebuilt block. I'm not that happy with the compression, about the same as last time with 7.8's on the front and 8.2's on the rear. I expected it to be all 9's? ...how can I get 9's or even 10's? Would 3mm Apex seals have gave me better compression?



There were a few things that were sloppy on the previous engine. Eccentric shaft bolt not torqued, 1st gen eccentric shaft (I think mine got mixed up with someone elses because I was told mine was rusted to **** and I know it wasn't. When I opened the block I had a 1st gen shaft that had rust spots on it), chain reused and out of spec.



My latest engine has a 2nd gen shaft with jets (hopefully) and the plug thing (rotor bearings clearanced). They would not touch my RA apex seals even though they did not give me a warranty. I don't understand that at all. ...No warranty, do what ever I ask! They did install the teflon o-rings that came with my kit though. The money I saved buying used parts and new from Canada was lost because I did not get the discount I would have received had I bought all the parts from them.
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