3mm Apex Seals
#21
Originally Posted by bigbignacha' date='Mar 26 2004, 12:53 PM
has anyone tried these guys
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/2_mm_apex_seals.htm
this is what they claim
These seals offer 700% more bending strength and are 85% harder than the current after market competitors (Atkins and Hurley).
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/2_mm_apex_seals.htm
this is what they claim
These seals offer 700% more bending strength and are 85% harder than the current after market competitors (Atkins and Hurley).
#22
I have personally seen a RP race rotor that withstood a serious detonation condition - looked like it was thoroughly beaten w/ a ball peen hammer; the 3mm seals held up.
I have Chris's 2mm stockport in the car and his 3mm streetport on the shelf (It's going in after Rotary Revolution). I've driven cars with that engine and they're unbelievably powerful and durable. Many in our group got burned by the low-buck builders that put out garbage. They wind up paying over double what Chris charges and they still have a dubious engine in some cases by the time it's sorted out. Chris's fee for my engines at $2400 and $3400 respectively are not unreasonable for a stout, powerful, and forgiving engine that is hard to break IMO. As 94Touring says, it's in the tuning. RP and Gotham Racing are the best.
I have Chris's 2mm stockport in the car and his 3mm streetport on the shelf (It's going in after Rotary Revolution). I've driven cars with that engine and they're unbelievably powerful and durable. Many in our group got burned by the low-buck builders that put out garbage. They wind up paying over double what Chris charges and they still have a dubious engine in some cases by the time it's sorted out. Chris's fee for my engines at $2400 and $3400 respectively are not unreasonable for a stout, powerful, and forgiving engine that is hard to break IMO. As 94Touring says, it's in the tuning. RP and Gotham Racing are the best.
#23
Originally Posted by j9fd3s' date='Mar 26 2004, 03:07 PM
it doesnt matter, detonation is almost 100 times stonger than normal combustion, it will break anything you put in there
But I don't believe most people believe a 3mm seal is invincible. Most are just wondering which one is better. If you were to build an engine and money was not an object, which seal should be used?
#24
Something interesting I discovered: We had a Rotary aviation 2mm seal at the shop that had a damaged corner piece, so we couldn't use it. I decided to mess around with it to see how strong it was. A stock 2mm seal can easily be snaped in half in your hands. I couln't break the RA seal. I also tried hitting it with a hammer and all it did was dent the concrete on our shop floor. Eventually I hit it hard enough and it broke, but it definately seams much stronger than the stock mazda seals. I will be running the RA 3mm seals in my motor that I am building now. From my experiences, mazda 2mm seals offer no forgiveness to pinging or detonation. There is just no room for error. Almost every stock seal 2mm motor that I've poped went at a single ping. In fact it just let go, didn't even hear anything. The last one I thought I heard some pinging earlier in the day when I was driving but I thought the noise was caused by a zip tie rubbing on my fans. It let go later that afternoon when I forgot about the noise I heard earlier and got on it. The 3mm mazda seal motor I had detonated hard at least 2 or 3 times before it popped. This was several years ago when I didn't have much experience, and I thought it was ignition breaking up. I got on it again and it let go. Point being, from my experiences 3mm seals at least are resilient enough to resist a knock or two so you can see there is a problem and correct it.
#25
I was at a shop today that does every single porting to rotary motors that you can think of, including what they called a "J-Port" which can and WILL produce 300hp on just the motor itself. He told me all about 3mm seals, and you're leaving out important things besides milling the rotors.
As we know, the point of the seals is that they're thicker, making them more durable, and therefore capable of higher boost. Ceramic-coated doesn't mean the world, but it helps. Steel would still be your best bet. Unless you're going to get carbon seals which will blow in like 40k, but produce the best hp. Also, the carbon seals, when they go, will not damage the housing..they just kind of disentigrate. LoL.
Besides the actual apex seals though, you've got to know whether or not you want to go 3-piece, 2-piece, or 1-piece. The 3mm steel seals that I saw today were actually 1 piece. That's a custom work that they do. 2-piece steel 3mm is your best bet overall. Besides that, use the spring thingies from an FD. I forget what they're called :P
You want the # for this place? They don't joke around.
As we know, the point of the seals is that they're thicker, making them more durable, and therefore capable of higher boost. Ceramic-coated doesn't mean the world, but it helps. Steel would still be your best bet. Unless you're going to get carbon seals which will blow in like 40k, but produce the best hp. Also, the carbon seals, when they go, will not damage the housing..they just kind of disentigrate. LoL.
Besides the actual apex seals though, you've got to know whether or not you want to go 3-piece, 2-piece, or 1-piece. The 3mm steel seals that I saw today were actually 1 piece. That's a custom work that they do. 2-piece steel 3mm is your best bet overall. Besides that, use the spring thingies from an FD. I forget what they're called :P
You want the # for this place? They don't joke around.
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