Sorry for a bit OT but who's doing the work if ya don't mind revealing your source. Only reason I ask is that I'm familiar with quite a few shops up in that area from my two-stroke days. Owned several of those heads with interchangeable domes. That's common place. The really trick stuff is the actively variable chambered head. Sweet stuff!

[quote name='GMON' date='Apr 7 2005, 12:58 PM']Update: These are the studs being used.



http://www.xtremerotaries.com/main2/stud.htm



Again, we still need to nail down "exact" pricing. We are just looking for others to help lower per engine cost.



For 1 engine and 4 of the above style studs its $400 + bolt price. We are currently looking into the exact price of producing studs with these specs 4140 Chrome Moly, 180.000 psi tensile strength, all heat treated and black oxided.



Yes we are copying Guru, sorry, Aussieland is way too far for me to send my engine. And I dont see a patent anywhere https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

Thanks



GregW


[/quote]

Hey I was wondering if any of you guys have seen,heard,or tried this lighten E-shaft it sound great but if its not worth it then forget it. Someone help me out

here is the siteGURU

[quote name='86base' date='Apr 9 2005, 02:03 AM']Hey I was wondering if any of you guys have seen,heard,or tried this lighten E-shaft it sound great but if its not worth it then forget it. Someone help me out

here is the siteGURU


[/quote]



I personally would never use a needle bearing for that application. If you going to go that far what would be so hard about taking a step further and running a tube down that access hole by the dip stick and using a oil bearing?



I think its a start of a great idea.

[quote name='C. Ludwig' date='Apr 9 2005, 01:31 AM']Sorry for a bit OT but who's doing the work if ya don't mind revealing your source. Only reason I ask is that I'm familiar with quite a few shops up in that area from my two-stroke days. Owned several of those heads with interchangeable domes. That's common place. The really trick stuff is the actively variable chambered head. Sweet stuff!


[/quote]



Eckvall Engineering

[quote name='GMON' date='Apr 11 2005, 06:44 AM']I personally would never use a needle bearing for that application. If you going to go that far what would be so hard about taking a step further and running a tube down that access hole by the dip stick and using a oil bearing?



I think its a start of a great idea.


[/quote]



Whats wrong with a oil-fed roller bearing in this use? I think its far superior to an oil-film bearing for this purpose.

Thats a great price and shipping wont be killer. Definitly keep us updated. Thought about doing lightened rotors? And it would be great to have a lightened/ 2 piece e-shaft source in the states.

[quote name='scathcart' date='Apr 11 2005, 11:05 PM']Whats wrong with a oil-fed roller bearing in this use? I think its far superior to an oil-film bearing for this purpose.


[/quote]





They tend to chatter and slip instead of rolling at higher speeds. For load carrying ability its pretty hard to beat a hydrodynamic bearing.



I have a Norton rotary in bits and it has some nasty marks on the eshaft from the bearings (needle rollers) in the rotors.



With these studs or bolts that are being discussed have you taken into consideration the difference in axial stiffness of the thicker studs compared to the standard bolts, Im guessing that the cross sectional area will be two or more times that of the standard bolts. The increase in stiffness may be enough to start plasticly deforming the housings as the engine heats up.

[quote name='scathcart' date='Apr 11 2005, 11:05 PM']Whats wrong with a oil-fed roller bearing in this use? I think its far superior to an oil-film bearing for this purpose.


[/quote]



They suck in so many ways when compared to a hydro bearing. (My opinion)



If you have 100psi of oil pressure your e shaft is spinning on a 100 lb per square inch coushin of oil all arround it. Hydro pressure has some amazing propertys as well.



GregW

[quote name='Cheesy' date='Apr 12 2005, 01:54 PM']With these studs or bolts that are being discussed have you taken into consideration the difference in axial stiffness of the thicker studs compared to the standard bolts, Im guessing that the cross sectional area will be two or more times that of the standard bolts. The increase in stiffness may be enough to start plasticly deforming the housings as the engine heats up.


[/quote]



Yeah, Im back to wanting regular pins. The bolts are $400 for an engine. Thats before the machineing is done. We meet the guys on friday so hopefully we at least get going on something. Lots of pics to follow.



GregW

I've been thinking a about this a bit more, another solution may be to get gome 4340 or 4140 or whatever tube instead of rod/studes and tap the ends. This way the increase in cross sectional area will not be as large but there is still the benifit of the added torsional rigidity.



Totaly agree with the bearing thing if youve got oil pressure you cant beat a hydrodynamic bearing for simplicity, load carrying, reliability and cost



Dave