knonfs

RB manifold by itself is like $220, the Jay tech is close to $300!

mazdaspeed7

Ive got enough first hand experience to know better now.

j9fd3s

its a nice place to visit, i dont really like to live there though

knonfs

Please share them

mazdaspeed7

I did. Its really quite pointless. You want a n/a because you cant afford a turbo? You cant afford to make decent power with a n/a. You want n/a because you want to prove that it can be done? Youll spend thousands of dollars to have less hp and a much less enjoyable car.



So why do you think my engine is for sale? I kept telling myself that this one next mod would make everything better. Time after time, it didnt.

rowtareh

What about doing a full bridgeport, stand alone, full straight exhaust with no cats or presilencer, and a huge intake box(maybe even CAI), bigger injectors, better ignition(like a Crane Hi-6?), lighter rotors with higher compression(like out of the 85 GSL-SE's), roll cage, and big wide super sticky tires? That could press well over 200hp I would think. How much power would you be looking at with all this?



And could you put nitrous on also with a full BP?



I wanna go BP on my S4 N/A, and go full, but still want it to be streetable? Is this even possible? Or will it just be really friggin loud? I already know that it won't get very good gas mileage, but I don't take long rides anywhere, I drive 20 miles a day combined to work, and everything I need is local. Would it be worth going full BP compared to a Streetport? I know I need a standalone and probably a high flow cat with presilencer to make it tame. I just want that throat idle like a big v8 with overhead cams, and I want it to be tougher than hell.



Also would need to upgrade the tranny, drifeshaft, e-shaft, differential,clutch and pressure plate, and flywheel right?



Bridgeporting all the way man.

mazdaspeed7

Do you realize you "built" a $10k racecar?



If money is no object, I believe the hp record for n/a 13B's is held by Jesus Padilla with his PP 13B all motor drag car at ~360 rwhp. A street tuned PP is good for about 240-280 rwhp, and a full bridge 4 port will do similar numbers. I have yet to see numbers on a full bridge 6 port, but I expect it to make more power than a full bridge 4 port.



Power can be made out of a n/a. Theres a straight forward recipe for it. Built a motor for high rpm with lots of porting, get a custom exhaust, a non-stock intake manifold, and a standalone. But that will set you back $4k-$10k+. You cant forget about the dyno tuning, and the fact that youre trying to make a race engine bearable on the street. The best you can hope for is a car with just enough drivability to be a decent weekend car. Forget a daily driver. You will hate life.



To make power out of a n/a, you have to make a lot of compromises. And I can tell you from experience, unless your the masochistic sort, you will not be happy with the end result.



I used to think like you did. Then I built the car you want to build. And guess what. I wish I could go back to stock. I wish I could take back everything I had done without losing out on the thousands of dollars and hundreds of hours of work Ive put into it. The power isnt worth the compromises I had to make in everything else to get there.

j9fd3s

full bp will do about 220-250rwhp (bp's vary in size, and timing) @ 11k+rpms, the engine will need to be torn down about every 12-18months, because when you cut the water seal for the port the silicon doesnt last forever.



cool thing about bp's: you dont need a fancy clutch, cause you're not increasing torque. also if you gear it right they get good mileage on the freeway



bad things about bp's: you didnt increase torque, so the 2700lbs car is still not gonna be fast. they idle rough, it shakes the whole car, and it doesnt cruise

bill shurvinton

Shame shipping to UK is so expensive. I would be interested in that engine.



My tuppence worth here, and please bear in mind that my 13B engined beasty only weighs 1200lbs, so I have unusual compromises, not least that a turbo adds way too much weight.



The problems with a highly tuned 6-port are directly related to intake and control issues. Viz, you really need a 3, 5 or 6 butterfly inlet system to be able to take advantage of the variable port timing that the engine gives you. The stock setup is horrid from an airflow perspective (air doesn't like to turn corners). That racing beat got 225HP on the dyno with their setup was even more impressive given the use of a stock LIM. But if you take their plots and calculate back to torque curves it gives some very interesting pointers on runner length needed for certain RPM ranges.



With time and the right skill set ( a bit of fabrication, welding and electronics) you could come up with something that gives you a good set of tradeoffs beween low end drivability and high end power. If you don't have those skills, or the ability to barter for them, then it becomes expensive.



Would be fun though. Unfortunately I'm saving for a couple of other engines first (400HP single rotor anyone?).

knonfs

It really depends what you call pointless....



On a NA, you don't have to worry so much about detonation (you know why). There are pros and cons, you and I went the turbo route (for different reasons); however knocking down the NA route, it is shameful IMHO!



You say pointless, I ask you what did you dyno? Did you ever hit the 200HP mark? Don't take this a attack, but more like "you didn't really get there" or "You didn't do things the proper way"



They did +220HP at the wheels on a street port 6 port engine, you and I know that a Ito's bridge will yeld higher numbers. Don't get me wrong, I know a T2 with the same amount of $$$ or a grand more will make WAY more power; but ever since I bought a miata, I have come to the conclusion that not everything is about HP