Looks pretty interesting. Hey count me in as one in need of an ARP stud kit.

check here

there are 2 reasons i can think of why theres a gap on the stock bolts.



1. the dowel pins are designed to take that side to side load and not the tension bolts, they are meant to clamp the whole mess together.



b. if they were tighter they have a chance of rusting in there, making engine dissasembly like removing the cylinder head from a tr7....

Have you ever seen 10A tension bolts? They're very thin. Even early 12A bolts are thinner than later 12A bolts.

hmm i never really looked at em

very good points,,, amp- good link, ha

did i date myself with the tr7 comment?

no it shows extensive experience and good taste in cars... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

not a big fan of the tr7

http://www.brochures.fsnet.co.uk/tr7.jpg



instead of having 2 rows of vertical head studs like every single car even made except the tr7 it had one row at an angle. so when the head gasket blows (note thats not an if) you have to pull the studs out of the block which wouldnt be so bad except that they rust to the head.

LOL,



this is typical British Leyland, trying to save money.



I remember working on a Triumph Dolomite Sprint, that instead of normal bolts the engine was assembled with "Allen" type bolts, it was an extreme pain in the ass.



I had only owned Morris/Austin/Leyland/Rover vehicles before I got an RX-7 and when I did I found it soooooo easy to work on in comparison.



No raw knuckles anymore.





That being said I still have a Mini Cooper S sitting in the garage waiting for me to get enthused enough about rebuilding it.