12a intake sp port template sizes
04-05-2007, 06:18 AM
#3
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Central Ohio (Hebron) Zephyrhills Fla.
Posts: 1,322
Originally Posted by jaydun323' post='866731' date='Apr 4 2007, 08:42 PM
anybody??
oh does some one have a pic of one of Judge's port templates next to another companies for a comparison shoot.
Ink up around the port with a Majic marker. Lay in a crank and rotor. Using a piece of coat hanger with a sharp end, scribe the path of the leading end of the side seal.
Then scribe the path of the trailing end of the side seal.
Now find TDC, by reading the many posts about that.
Read Paul Yaws tech articals and select a closing point. 75 degrees, 80 degrees, whatever.
Install your degree wheel and pointer and run the rotor to the closing point you have selected.
Scribe a line along the rotor edge.
Port to just inside of the leading end of the side seal track. Trailing end unsupported is OK.
Port to the closing line.
I raise the outer end of the line a bit to produce a smooth arrival of the trailing end onto the iron.
Stay a bit shallow while doing the closing line. You don't want much added volume in the bowl, and you don't want to strike water.
Radius and polish the closing line.
Check your work several times. Look into the port with a mirror and turn the crank to be sure that the leading end is supported, and if you choose to leave the trailing end unsupported, be sure it does not touch the port edge until the closing line.
Once happy with the new port shape, copy with poster board and a ball piene hammer, to include the dowel holes. (Do the dowel holes first, then install the dowels and complete the pattern).
Now you have made your own template, and you can show others how to do it.
There will be no wear problems. The power will be much better than stock. And, the car will be drivable on the street. The best street ports are over 230 HP at 9,000 RPM.
04-05-2007, 08:51 AM
#4
Fabricator
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Central Ohio (Hebron) Zephyrhills Fla.
Posts: 1,322
Originally Posted by Lynn E. Hanover' post='866771' date='Apr 5 2007, 04:19 AM
Ink up around the port with a Majic marker. Lay in a crank and rotor. Using a piece of coat hanger with a sharp end, scribe the path of the leading end of the side seal.
Then scribe the path of the trailing end of the side seal.
Now find TDC, by reading the many posts about that.
Read Paul Yaws tech articals and select a closing point. 75 degrees, 80 degrees, whatever.
Install your degree wheel and pointer and run the rotor to the closing point you have selected.
Scribe a line along the rotor edge.
Port to just inside of the leading end of the side seal track. Trailing end unsupported is OK.
Port to the closing line.
I raise the outer end of the line a bit to produce a smooth arrival of the trailing end onto the iron.
Stay a bit shallow while doing the closing line. You don't want much added volume in the bowl, and you don't want to strike water.
Radius and polish the closing line.
Check your work several times. Look into the port with a mirror and turn the crank to be sure that the leading end is supported, and if you choose to leave the trailing end unsupported, be sure it does not touch the port edge until the closing line.
Once happy with the new port shape, copy with poster board and a ball piene hammer, to include the dowel holes. (Do the dowel holes first, then install the dowels and complete the pattern).
Now you have made your own template, and you can show others how to do it.
There will be no wear problems. The power will be much better than stock. And, the car will be drivable on the street. The best street ports are over 230 HP at 9,000 RPM.
That was supposed to be a picture and a post not two posts.
Lynn E. Hanover
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