GMON

Is there a good place to buy the 10.X and 11.x online.



I hate those dreaded trips to the parts store where they simply MUST know what kind of car the plugs are for. Then they tell you those plugs dont go in that car. ect ect ect

GMON

Whats your timing at idle that you can hold 13:1? I go past 12 and the engine dies.

What is your rpm?



Got any tips?

BLUE TII

The heat range of a plug is application specific, so even though the bgev10's say 10, they probably arent a "10" by rotary plug standards.



I also read on NGK site that the heat range only applies to plugs in the exact same series.



If looking for an upgrade from stock, it would then make sense to choose a plug from an engine with poor cooling and high power density (like an air cooled 2 stroke?)



I believe the BR10EIX are for a 2 stroke snowmobile so I run those.



Racing Beat now recommends them for Racing streetports, but they may just be trying to sell their cut down socket



I think raising the heat range of the plug is a great reason to do the cooling jacket mod and so I did that as well.



I ran a set of stock plugs and they were completely gone in 3,000 miles-couldn't light the mix off above 4,000rpm @12 psi boost. Dual crane Hi-6 and lx92 coils for leading plugs shortens life though.



On same set-up BR10EIX last about 10-15,000 miles with a bit of wear (still light off mix).



I wonder if we could get temp sensitive paint and put it on the exposed porceline to make sure it was staying in the proper heat range?

Maxt

If you have idle air control, and use the vacuum guage, to set your idle mixtures and timing, mid 13's is do-able..Mines a half bridge, idles at 1300 or so, and sometimes wanders into the 14's at idle because I use closed loop at idle..



If you are using power fc, its not quite that easy, you have to run the car long enough to let it learn idle ,and with non stock injectors set your lag properly then slowly edge them upward, the PFC likes to sit in the 12.4-range.. I found it non responsive with the dataloggit, but with the Apexi software I adjusted the target a/f map and it levelled out to low to mid 13's on another car at 950 rpm..







As for racingbeat,yeah they are peddling those plugs for some reason, i think its because even they dont get a great deal on the real race plugs...I think it was them that called the race plug race only and warned about not using it on the street, for unknown reasons..They want alot of cash for the real race plugs... Lots of people getting hosed on those...

guitarjunkie28

you're probably a lot richer than that. the o2 sensor sees the misfire from the bp and your o2 readings at idle *look* lean. if you REALLY want to know exactly what they are (if you care), go to your local smog place and throw it on a 5-gas analyser and have it calculate the afr.

Maxt

I have a KAL smog test gas analayzer on my engine analyzer I use to check the wb readings to when I suspect something is up with one of them, and its reading the same as the FJO and LM-1 on the Bp, lean misfres break up the bp rhythim enough to know when its gone into misfire alont with the erratic wideband readings, if anything the bp is the easiet to do as the charge dilution miss makes the lean miss much more pronounced. besides thats not the only type of engine I have tuned to lean idle. if you set up using the vac guage and balance the gains of vacuum of timing versus fueling , you can achieve a nice lean idle, that doesnt smell like the tailpipe of a 59 caddy with the choke on...If you cant break out of the 12's on idle with tons of tuning, do a compression test, when motors get down in the 60's and 70's they typically wont idle above 12:1..

guitarjunkie28

hey, i didn't say I idled that rich. cosmo intermediate is pimpin'. high 13's.