Replacing Rotor Bearings
03-17-2006, 02:02 AM
#31
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Germany
Posts: 240
03-17-2006, 01:42 PM
#32
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Tacoma, WA
Posts: 179
Its easier if you have the correct tools. It is a weird bearing, using the wrong tools can also damage the new bearings...
http://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/cu...me.php?cat=568
http://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/cu...me.php?cat=568
03-27-2006, 08:53 AM
#34
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: NJ USA
Posts: 1,915
I wanted to stress something out here..... when your installing new bearings.. for your own good. MAKE SURE THE PRESS YOUR USING IS FIRM!!!!!!!!!! when I say firm I mean... it does not move side to side.. wickle... shake... move.... tilt... if the press is doing this. DON'T WASTE YOUR TIME.... why I say this.. very simple. if the press.. tilts... your bearing is going to go in wrong. 90% of the time it will create a TAPER.. in one part of the bearing you will measure .002 of and inch clearance between your eccentric shaft journal and the bearing and on the other side of the bearing you will measure .003 of and inch. the rotor bearing is going to be tight on one side and would create some failure.. you could always fix a problem like that but y? if you could avoid it..plus use the tool made for bearing installation from mazda..
theres tons of more tips.. soon to be released..
theres tons of more tips.. soon to be released..
05-06-2006, 12:54 AM
#37
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 10,906
Originally Posted by Lynn E. Hanover' post='791082' date='Dec 31 2005, 12:52 AM
Just as with the magic tab, the locktite will not prevent a bearing from spinning that has welded itself to the crank. If a person were to hone out the bore just a bit, and sand out the bearing ID with some 600 silicone carbide paper in solvent, to get a bit more clearance, then you want to add some help for the lost crush fit.
The loctite also helps make a thermal conductor. Some rotors have dismal machining in the bore ID. As though they were done with dull tooling. The Locktite fills those voids.
It is my understanding that honing removes not enough material to be able to measure.
If the locktite does survive those temperatures it will defineatly close up bearing clearances.
Clevite engineerings have told me they have seen temps 100 degrees hotter that what we have measured coming off the crank on pistons engines( we measured 450degrees F)....
05-06-2006, 09:46 AM
#38
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Central Ohio (Hebron) Zephyrhills Fla.
Posts: 1,322
Originally Posted by 1Revvin7' post='817677' date='May 5 2006, 09:54 PM
It is my understanding that honing removes not enough material to be able to measure.
If the locktite does survive those temperatures it will defineatly close up bearing clearances.
Clevite engineerings have told me they have seen temps 100 degrees hotter that what we have measured coming off the crank on pistons engines( we measured 450degrees F)....
Well, honing will take away as much material as you want it to. It just makes for a nicer finish and a rounder hole.
The point of honing the bore of the rotor is to remove material so as to increase the bore size, so as to increase the bearing bore size, so as to increase the bearing to crank clearance. While doing this you loose much of the crush fit of the bearing. So, you loctite it at the minimum and it is real smart to drill and tap holes so you can bolt the bearing in place with flat head (socket head) screws. Three per end works fine. Removing the indium overly eliminates the flowing of indium at very high temps, so you cannot loose the bearing from locally overheated oil.
Oil temps in the wedge may be astronomical and even though the actual amount (volume) of oil is tiny, it is a major sourse of oil temperature.
If you press a new bearing into a rotor (more likely on a lightened racing rotor) and it goes in real easy, better check the bore diameter to see if it has been enlarged. (you should have checked it already)
There should be screw holes to give this away, but not always. The very smooth finish of the modified bore would also be a clue.
Lynn E. Hanover
06-28-2006, 01:19 AM
#39
Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 69
Originally Posted by banzaitoyota' post='808482' date='Mar 17 2006, 06:59 PM
I prefer the REAL tool
Well then I guess you prefer to spend unnecessary amounts of money to press them out? I used the front e-shaft pulley boss as my press tool to remove mine at a local machine shop. It was an absolute perfect fit. It's funny how Mazda made special expensive tools to use when certain tools already exist with-in the engine. LOL!