Lynn E. Hanover

The tab is bent over when you get it. Notice the puzzle lock that is used to form up the cylinder shape, and keep the joint a bit less than an open seam line. The bearing starts out as a flat piece. Some times the bearing is not all that round and only gets good enough when installed into the supposedly round bearing bore in the rotor. Same for the main bearings.



I grind off the tab on the rotor bearings. It doesn't do anything.



On the main bearings it is required to align the oil holes. Draw a line on the bearing with a black marker in line with the tab, using a small square. Align that line with the center of the notch in the stationary gear, and press it home. Works just about every time. Dress up the hole in the bearing to mate with the oil gallery in the front stationary gear. Use a carbide so there are no stone bits stuck in the bearing.



I radius the back side of the three window rear bearing oil ports before installation. It probably doesn't matter but I like to do it.





Lynn E. Hanover

R.P.M.

Grind off the Tab ??? Doesn't that help keep it from spinning inside the rotor?

Lynn E. Hanover

Well,............no.





The hole in the rotor is poorly finished.



When you press in the bearing, the plating flows into the rough

surface of the bore, along with the Locktite. The bearing is a bit bigger than the hole, and it is hard to push

in the bearing, even with a hydraulic press.



So..............the bearing has one hell of a grip on the inside of the hole.



A grip that is about 1,000 times stronger than the tab.



A failure of such magnitude that the bearing will spin but for the tab is of short duration.

So..............I am guessing that the duration of such a situation could be no longer than

about one nanosecond. Just a guess mind you, maybe it's two nanoseconds before the

bearing begins to rotate.



The point is that the tab idea wouldn't work if the thing had six tabs, or ten tabs.



Let us say that as you grab 5th at 9,600 RPM you blow off an oil line. The oil film is supporting maybe 2,000

PSI, three miliseconds later there is no oil film, and the overly begins to weld to the crank.



One second later the weld is complete and the crank has stopped. If nothing in the driveline breaks, the rear wheels will also stop. The car begins to rotate around the virtical axis. And so on................



This is due to the press fit not breaking loose. If it does break the press fit bond, that will require that several hundreds of foot pounds of torque are in play. Only 50 or so will strip off te tab.



So........if the tab does nothing........and the tab left in place can ruin the bearing if installed out of index.

........I grind it off.





Lynn E. Hanover

R.P.M.

Good way of dumbing it down for me LOL!



Thanks for the info Lynn!!

Nospig

If u got a press and some spare engine bits the backing lug to the front pulley is the right size you can use it to press the old ones out and the new ones in. To line the lock tabs up scribe some lines down the back using a square.

Rx7carl

I lost a rotor bearing a while back in the IT car. It seems that the bearing got oil starved (never figured out why) and welded to the e shaft, seemingly ruining it, then it obviously spun in the rotor bore. I think the rotor is toast but havent messed with it. I replaced the rotating assy with one from a spare engine. One day Ill fool with it, thanks for the clue on the crappy machinging on the rotor bore. Maybe the rotor is salvagable after all.

Judge Ito

most likely air bubbles swimming inside your oil would cause that failure.

jspecracer7

Whenever I press out used bearings with a manual press...I jump whenever they make that first CLANK sound. Gets me EVERY time.

R.P.M.

I recently took a pair of GSL-SE rotors to the machine shop to get some new bearings pressed in, this is the first pair the machinest has ever done.

He told me that his 5 ton hydrulic press wouldn't pop the old bearings out, so he used the 10 ton press. He was quite amazed at how much pressure it took to get the old bearings out.

Is that normal or should they have come out easier?

Rx7carl

Really? It ran great till it popped. What would cause the bubbles? Cavitation at the pump?