atf is corrosive to the side seals.....

I let a spare engine I had soak in ATF (and I mean it was full of the ****) for nearly a year and all the rubber seals in it showed no signs of corosion or deterioration from the ATF, in fact they were very clean.....



The side seals and all the other metal parts showed no signs of deterioration due to the ATF either...

They were however still completly caked in carbon build up, which leads me to the conclusion that ATF does SFA for carbon build up https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png



RONIN FC, I wouldn't worry too much about adding 2-stroke oil to a running engine, it will end up stalling because 2-stroke wont combust... and I can't see that harming the engine at all.



and thats all ima gonna say about that...

Exactly what I thought. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/happy.png



Any comments on the last tank of fuel being a mix of stabilizer and premix? I still don't think that's the best idea, however I want to remove the MOP while the car is down for winter.

I'd personally drain the fuel if your leaving the car for a long time and just put some fresh stuff in when you next drive it...



With regards to removing the stock MOP I think thats a great idea, since i've removed mine I havn't looked back since. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png



As a bit of aside I recently took apart this engine that was running on premix for nearly a year and the internals didnt have any carbon buildup at all, the rotor surfaces were smooth and shiny, whereas the last engine I took appart that had the stock MOP connected had loads of carbon build up.. both motors were driven the same and both were tuned well...

More than a small coincidence I thought, that is one reason why I like recomending premix instead of the stock MOP.

I had internals from a stock MOP running 13B, and the carbon buildup on each rotor face was absolutely ridiculous.



4 stroke oil does not belong in the combustion chamber. That's what brought me to the decision.



Besides, having one apart, I plan on rebuilding my GXL's motor next winter (want to do it before it decides it doesn't want an apex seal anymore), and I would really like to compare the internals, having one running premix for a year or so.

http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/atftrick.htm

if you read on it explains that it is corrosive to the oil seals as well, prolly why you disassembled your spare engine... no offense but i think i'm gonna take aaron's info on this subject

Armor all kills paint.



DO NOT get a drop on the paint. Even a mist from a draft onto paint is very bad.



You won't notice until you go to repaint. You will get fish eyes in the new paint (dimples). The painter Dan at my work repainted a truck, and the owner went nuts with armor all, and there was TONS of fish eyes all over the hood, doors, painted trim, etc. Pretty much everywhere except the box of the pickup.



Edit: And all of them were cause by a draft to push some mist from the spray bottle when he was spraying the dash and other interior pieces.



To get rid of it he has to sand them out and smooth it over (which takes alot of time, which we all know equals money if you aren't doing it yourself). Not to mention repainting. It's basically a huge nightmare.



As for the ATF trick, I have heard of ATF eating seals. MMO is much safer. My 13B internals had MMO sitting in the motor for a while by the previous owner. I haven't had any problems. I can't really tell you how well it worked because I haven't pulled the motor apart, but.. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png

Your supposed to Prep-All the old paint before you sand. Prep-All is a thinner based cleaner used to clean the surface before and after steps in body work.

I'll ask Dan at work, but he said he tried everything to prevent it from happening and it did anyways.



He's been in painting autos for about 20 years, so I can't picture him not knowing what it is. I'll ask anyways though and see what he says.

100% correct CollinRX7, armorall is baaaaad **** when its get on paint. you have to sand back the area effected because normal thinners do not remove it.





Back to the ATF, i've read arron cakes take on it before and im sure the info he has read about it is correct, however all im saying is that is was not corossive to ANY rubber seals in my engine that sat in the stuff for over a year... Including the oil seals obviously.....



But obviously real world experience doesn't count for much https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png