Putting A Rotary Away For Storage
#1
What do you guys recommend?
I was thinking of (after It's "parked" but still running when you initally put it into place) letting it idle, and then letting the motor choke itself on 2 stoke into the intake until she shuts down.
Then it would have a nice healthy layer of oil for protection and lubrication over winter, no?
Is there something else I should use?
I'm looking at approximately a 5-6 month rest period for my motor over winter.
I just want to pull it out from sleeping in spring without any troubles and no engine damage. I don't really care about smoke.
What do you guru's reccommend?
I was thinking of (after It's "parked" but still running when you initally put it into place) letting it idle, and then letting the motor choke itself on 2 stoke into the intake until she shuts down.
Then it would have a nice healthy layer of oil for protection and lubrication over winter, no?
Is there something else I should use?
I'm looking at approximately a 5-6 month rest period for my motor over winter.
I just want to pull it out from sleeping in spring without any troubles and no engine damage. I don't really care about smoke.
What do you guru's reccommend?
#2
Basically,
wash, wax, vaccum,
increase air pressure in tires to 40 psi
pull battery
fuel stablizer in fuel tank
bricks infront and behind each tire
DO NOT USE parking brake
Leave car in gear
Aluminum foil over muffler tips
armour all on door seals
remove wiper blades and let arm rest on paper towel
then wish it was spring.
wash, wax, vaccum,
increase air pressure in tires to 40 psi
pull battery
fuel stablizer in fuel tank
bricks infront and behind each tire
DO NOT USE parking brake
Leave car in gear
Aluminum foil over muffler tips
armour all on door seals
remove wiper blades and let arm rest on paper towel
then wish it was spring.
#3
yah you prolly wanna have fresh fluids in the car too. and then change them when it comes out of hibernation.
due to the metering pump/premix there already is a coating of oil in the engine, if you want to put a couple drops of something in there it wont hurt it, but it wont help much either. if you really want to do it right go out and spin the engine over about a 1/2 turn every couple of weeks. starting it periodically is bad unless you can get it fully up to temp for 45+ minutes
due to the metering pump/premix there already is a coating of oil in the engine, if you want to put a couple drops of something in there it wont hurt it, but it wont help much either. if you really want to do it right go out and spin the engine over about a 1/2 turn every couple of weeks. starting it periodically is bad unless you can get it fully up to temp for 45+ minutes
#4
Originally Posted by ColinRX7' date='Oct 29 2003, 10:25 AM
What do you guys recommend?
I was thinking of (after It's "parked" but still running when you initally put it into place) letting it idle, and then letting the motor choke itself on 2 stoke into the intake until she shuts down.
I was thinking of (after It's "parked" but still running when you initally put it into place) letting it idle, and then letting the motor choke itself on 2 stoke into the intake until she shuts down.
#5
Yeah, spin it and start it every few weeks. If the engine is old and you don't start it, the apex springs might flatten over time, giving you no compression when you want to revive your car next summer. So do forget about your car over the winter.
Oh disconnect the battery.
C
Oh disconnect the battery.
C
#7
Originally Posted by RONIN FC' date='Oct 29 2003, 08:15 PM
What was i thinking! youl just blow the seals right out of it! carry on then.
There was so much ATF in my old motor that half of the LIM was filled with it aswell, you could still turn it over by hand (with a braker bar...) with all this fluid in it, it would just push it straight out the exhaust...
Rotaries have terrible sealing at ultra low RPM's compared to piston motors.
And if your adding what ever, water(done this one aswell), 2-stroke, ATF, anything just about when the motor is running it will stall the engine from the fact that it is not flammable well before theres even nearly as much as how much i've put through my engine.
#8
Like I said I was thinking about it but I have never stored one before so I wanted some ideas.
Thanks for the input guys.
I was under the impression that you can't hydraulically lock a rotary engine.
This car is getting alot of work over winter too. For one, I am removing the Metering Oil Pump. Should I just wait until after it's stored or something? I was thinking that fuel stabilizer + premix as a last tank wouldn't go over too well.
Thanks for the input guys.
I was under the impression that you can't hydraulically lock a rotary engine.
This car is getting alot of work over winter too. For one, I am removing the Metering Oil Pump. Should I just wait until after it's stored or something? I was thinking that fuel stabilizer + premix as a last tank wouldn't go over too well.
#9
Originally Posted by White_FC' date='Oct 30 2003, 12:04 AM
[quote name='RONIN FC' date='Oct 29 2003, 08:15 PM']
What was i thinking! youl just blow the seals right out of it! carry on then.
What was i thinking! youl just blow the seals right out of it! carry on then.
There was so much ATF in my old motor that half of the LIM was filled with it aswell, you could still turn it over by hand (with a braker bar...) with all this fluid in it, it would just push it straight out the exhaust...
Rotaries have terrible sealing at ultra low RPM's compared to piston motors.
And if your adding what ever, water(done this one aswell), 2-stroke, ATF, anything just about when the motor is running it will stall the engine from the fact that it is not flammable well before theres even nearly as much as how much i've put through my engine. [/quote]
Yah but the difference is he was gonna do it to a running engine! Maybe im the only one who sees something wrong with this but....