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E-shaft End Play

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Old 01-30-2004, 10:00 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Judge Ito' date='Jan 29 2004, 03:45 AM
I always run a little more then .0025 in all my engine giving the engine enough to room to grow (side to side) and not jam the front and rear main bearings.
I just tested mine and I got .002" end play... you said you always have at least .0025 so should I get a bigger spacer or just keep it the way it is? This is a street ported S5 engine running a T04B turbo at 15psi.
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Old 02-01-2004, 06:26 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by net seven' date='Jan 31 2004, 04:00 AM
I just tested mine and I got .002" end play... you said you always have at least .0025 so should I get a bigger spacer or just keep it the way it is? This is a street ported S5 engine running a T04B turbo at 15psi.
.002 is fine. You could use it with no worries. The problem really happends when you don't have no end play or barely have enough.
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Old 04-24-2004, 08:54 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Wargasm' date='Jan 29 2004, 12:09 PM
Since we're on the topic of the front cover stuff....



I had an 87 TII engine spin the front and rear bearings after a few thousand miles. I believe that what happened is that I put in a very heavy duty pressure plate when I did the rebuild and the 15 year old front thrust plate in the front cover cracked because of this and let things move around too much.



When I took the engine apart, the front thrust plate that the thrust bearings ride on was split into two pieces! The needle thrust bearings were all messed up. It could be clearly seen that the side of the eccentric shaft rotor lobe had collided with the flat surface of the front iron plate... there were bad burn marks on the front iron all over the area inside the oil seal tracking marks. It was some major destruction!



Ever since then I always use a new thrust plate and I also recommend that people put the "upgraded" thrust bearing in there on an FC. Mazdatrix sells them. They are the same thickness, but they have more needle rollers in them to better take the load.



Brian
Most thrust bearing failures occur during disassembly. You have read all of these systems for removing the flywheel or counterweight from the rear taper. It is a big problem, and the first time you have to do it, it can be maddening.



The most popular system seems to be to pry like hell on the front of the flywheel and the rear iron while beating the snot out of the flywheel. The big problem with this method is that it almost always works. What? It works and thats a problem?



Yep.



When you pry on the flywheel or counterweight, you are trying to pull the crank out of the engine. What is preventing that from happening?



The front thrust bearing set is being crushed between the hard washer on the back of the front counterweight and the thrust plate. Both pieces are harder than the hinges of hell. They do not react well to bing bent. The wear washer on the back of the counterweight gets little dents in it. The center of the thrust plate bends further than the outter edge so it forms a bit of a cone.



The outer ends of the rollers in the front bearing set often fracture off tiny fragments from the outer ends of the rollers.



So now that you have the engine apart, circle the help around the trash can, raise an adult beverage in a salute to the good service rendered by the dearly departed thrust set, and drop ALL of it into the can. Don't keep any pieces around to look at or play with. If you keep even one piece hanging on a nail or whatever, it eventually find it's way back into another engine.(If you braze the thrust plate to the bottom of your oil can, it will stop falling over and leaking all over hell every time you walk into the room).



Don't forget the hard washer on the back of the front counterweight, and the thick one against the front throw. The one with the chamferred center hole. That is the one you damaged when you strike the flywheel in line with the crank.



I have not been burned yet by hanging on to the endplay spacers but maybe some day.



Even if you use the factory like Racing Beat puller, If you didn't put that thrust set in this engine, replace everything. The idiot that built it the last time probably beat the crap out of it getting the flywheel off.You know how they did that, remember?





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Old 04-21-2014, 01:30 PM
  #34  
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Default Re: E-shaft End Play

Sorry if someone already answered this question. Upon reading this thread i'm concern about my end play. I replaced all of the washers/ thrust bearings in the front stack and running down the bolt (hand tight) i measured about .003, after following racing beat recommendation of raising the torque from 87 to 120ft-lb ( i went to 105 figured it half way between 87 and 120) my clearance now measures .0009-.0012, if i really put a pry bar to the counter weight i measure maybe .0014. Should I be concern and reduce the torque for play, or just let it be?
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