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E-shaft End Play

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Old 08-17-2003, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by rx7_re' date='Aug 16 2003, 12:53 PM
no offense goracer, but you have A LOT to learn.



and yes this must be taken into consideration when building an engine.
I watched the video to, now i'm an expert!



ok basicaly I will "only" be replacing the water o-rings and will be doing it myself because of money. So what I don't know is will the play change when reassembling the block or will it be the same? I am assuming the play is created from wear.



...yes I should be checking the specs on everything but I did "not" have any compression problems. I could have attached a 100 mile garden hose to the radiator and not worried about the o-rings again.
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Old 08-17-2003, 07:52 PM
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GoRacer don't be suprised if you have to replace more than you think. It most likely isn't going to be as simple as just replacing the water seals, you should replace all the worn down seals and other paper gaskets.
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Old 08-18-2003, 09:27 AM
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will the play change when reassembling the block or will it be the same? I am assuming the play is created from wear.


End play is a result of wear of the thrust plate and needle bearings only. So the two needle bearings, one thrust plate and spacer are the only components in the motor which determine end-play. Doesn't matter what you do with the rotors, housings and plates (as long as there is correct width clearance between rotors and aluminium housings)
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Old 08-18-2003, 09:29 AM
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Yeah, forgot to say whilst getting all technical and all that... the end play should be exactly the same if you put it back together with the same needle bearings and plate.





And don't budget on just a set of coolant rings for your rebuild!
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Old 08-18-2003, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by toddp31' date='Aug 17 2003, 04:52 PM
GoRacer don't be suprised if you have to replace more than you think. It most likely isn't going to be as simple as just replacing the water seals, you should replace all the worn down seals and other paper gaskets.
yeah, pull the motor apart and see what you find. you may get lucky and not need anything but you may not. just because it had compression doesnt mean its not totally worn out on the inside, and just because theres low miles on the rebuild doesnt mean that everything was replaced. they could have reused marginal rotor housings and 25k later they arent good anymore



mike
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Old 08-22-2003, 05:36 PM
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1. What is a 'thrust plate'?

2. What are you reffering to when you say 'needle bearings'?

3. What happens if end play is too loose? Or too tight?
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Old 08-22-2003, 08:34 PM
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Click Here
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Old 01-28-2004, 06:16 PM
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i've been trying to perfect this on the engine



i got .005 the first try with a D spacer



then i put in a C spacer, and got .004



i think mazda says the max is .0035, and normal is .0018-.0028



what are opinions on this? how much are these spacers?
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Old 01-28-2004, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 93BlackFD' date='Jan 28 2004, 04:16 PM
I've been trying to perfect this on the engine



I got .005 the first try with a D spacer



then I put in a C spacer, and got .004



I think mazda says the max is .0035, and normal is .0018-.0028



what are opinions on this? how much are these spacers?
When you measure this end play, be sure the stack is torqued all the way to the maximum allowed. Then measure end play again.



If still to much, oil a flat surface, like a piece of window glass, or a piece of end housing, or a formica counter top. lay a piece of wet or dry #400 grit paper on the oiled surface to keep the paper from moving around and oil the paper.



Measure the spacer length, and calculate how much must be removed.



Slide the spacer in a figure eight pattern on the paper for one minute. Rinse the spacer in solvent and measure again. Continue until the spacer is the correct length.



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Old 01-28-2004, 07:31 PM
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i did that ^



except i used 90 grit (400 took too long) and it went from 3.16 thick to 3.13 thick



now my end play is .001
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