Lets Talk Suspension Setup For An Fc
10-16-2003, 09:58 PM
#21
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Location: Sunny South Florida :)
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Originally Posted by Jims5543' date='Oct 16 2003, 04:51 PM
[quote name='Travis R' date='Oct 15 2003, 02:56 PM'] Ah if this is the case then I would think you're heading in the right direction. At the beginning of the thread it sounded like the car wasn't rotating enough for you.
We just put some softer spring into the back of our open wheeled car in hopes of solving the same problem.
Good luck! Let us know how it goes.
We just put some softer spring into the back of our open wheeled car in hopes of solving the same problem.
Good luck! Let us know how it goes.
When I go through sloloms or switch from a left to a hrad right the rear will just let go with no warning.
I realized after driving cars with much softer suspensions that my car is too stiff.
This is an experiment I have a really cool idea why not wait until I swap out the springs and race the car then we can second quess this to death.
I have an Autocross this sunday I might take my mini. If I can get some time tomarrow or saturday to swap in the springs I will race the RX-7 and see if its improved or if I need to order more springs.
I hope the limited slip is working like it should.
what kind of greas did you use again?? I know with limited slips you don't want too much of a lubricant because it affects how quick the clutch engages.
maybe a modifier??
10-25-2003, 08:52 PM
#22
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Corvallis, Oregon
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Wow, you sure like stiff spring rates.
Stock is 95 (f) and 90 ®.
Racing Beat's are 140 (f) and 132 ® . . not that they do a lot of racing, but going from 95 to 450 is a lot of rate to add. Your springs, coupled with larger anti-roll bars, sounds like they might be exceeding the damping ability of the shocks.
I've read that it depends on the track . . stiff springs for smooth surfaces and medium springs for more common (autocross parking lot) surfaces.
I've got the dual rate Eibach's on my FC and while better than stock, when the initial soft spring rate is used up, they feel too stiff for me, and they are 70/185 (f) and 85/165 ®. I like a relatively soft spring setup and stiff damping, however, so I can toss the car in a turn and not worry about a little road bump sending me flying.
Stock is 95 (f) and 90 ®.
Racing Beat's are 140 (f) and 132 ® . . not that they do a lot of racing, but going from 95 to 450 is a lot of rate to add. Your springs, coupled with larger anti-roll bars, sounds like they might be exceeding the damping ability of the shocks.
I've read that it depends on the track . . stiff springs for smooth surfaces and medium springs for more common (autocross parking lot) surfaces.
I've got the dual rate Eibach's on my FC and while better than stock, when the initial soft spring rate is used up, they feel too stiff for me, and they are 70/185 (f) and 85/165 ®. I like a relatively soft spring setup and stiff damping, however, so I can toss the car in a turn and not worry about a little road bump sending me flying.
10-25-2003, 09:57 PM
#23
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Jensen Beach, FL / Sylva, NC
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Again the quote from Mazdatrix regarding the springs they send you with your coil over kit.
I did not choose these springs Mazdatrix did. At first I liked them a lot and did a lot of winning with them. I am looking foward to the softer springs and seeing if they work better for me.
Body roll isnt a good thing. Once your body rolls it begins to cancel out any negative camber you may have. Thats why stock class guys install monster sway bars to prevent as much body roll as possible. When you reason along thse line stiffer springs start to make sense. I just think the "starter" springs from Mazdatrix are a little too stiff.
These RACING SPRINGS are the "best" starting rates for the applications listed. Other rates are available, but we recommend starting with the listed ones, and see if the car needs any changes -- remember that all suspension is inter-related. You can make the whole car stiffer (buy 4 or 8 more springs), soften the whole car (buy 4 or 8 more springs), change one end only (buy 2 more at least) almost indefinitely -- and then it's all different at the next track --------- Welcome to RACING ---
I did not choose these springs Mazdatrix did. At first I liked them a lot and did a lot of winning with them. I am looking foward to the softer springs and seeing if they work better for me.
Body roll isnt a good thing. Once your body rolls it begins to cancel out any negative camber you may have. Thats why stock class guys install monster sway bars to prevent as much body roll as possible. When you reason along thse line stiffer springs start to make sense. I just think the "starter" springs from Mazdatrix are a little too stiff.
10-26-2003, 12:50 PM
#24
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Jim,
are you using the mazdatrix camber/caster plates?
are you able to use a strut bar with the plates? because looking at the pic it looks like my Racing beat strut bar would no longer work.
Here is the maztrix camber plates for anyone else wondering
This is the mazdaspeed motorsports version
Allows adjustment of Camber and Caster. Requires cutting of the upper strut tower sheet metal for fitment. For use with 2.5' race springs. Made for use with Koni strut (R8610-1149). From Design Products Racing. Bearing i.d. .630'
are you using the mazdatrix camber/caster plates?
are you able to use a strut bar with the plates? because looking at the pic it looks like my Racing beat strut bar would no longer work.
Here is the maztrix camber plates for anyone else wondering
This is the mazdaspeed motorsports version
Allows adjustment of Camber and Caster. Requires cutting of the upper strut tower sheet metal for fitment. For use with 2.5' race springs. Made for use with Koni strut (R8610-1149). From Design Products Racing. Bearing i.d. .630'
10-26-2003, 04:34 PM
#25
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Location: Jensen Beach, FL / Sylva, NC
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I used to have the Cusco front brace with my camber plates. Yes those are them. You need to go to the hardware store and get 2 longers bolts. For some weird reason Mazdatrix sends 2 bolts shorter than the rest. They will work w/o the strut bace but you need longer ones with the strut brace.
10-27-2003, 06:49 PM
#26
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Location: Memphis, Japan
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That setup seems dangerous.........Cutting the Shock tower is not a good idea IMO.
Check these upper out.......A car I just bought has these on it......haven't tried it yet cuz I am still building the car but will let you know. This seems much more thought out and useful than the above.
Check these upper out.......A car I just bought has these on it......haven't tried it yet cuz I am still building the car but will let you know. This seems much more thought out and useful than the above.
10-27-2003, 08:17 PM
#27
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I do not know why people cut the shock towers mine are not cut. The Mazdatrix camber plates are awesome. I can get from -1° to -5° camber. If you install them so you can get Zero camber then you need to cut the shock tower. I like my -1° of camber for the street.
10-28-2003, 08:02 AM
#29
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Yes. I use a string and a cambar guage. Once in a while I will have it checked on a digital alignment rack just to make sure its not too out of wack from changing it all the time.