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Welding Spider To Side Gear. Jig?

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Old 01-24-2005, 06:56 PM
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I'm thinking of yanking the diff from my RX3 and welding the side gears to the spiders. If I pull the diff out, can I just jump in with my welder, or will the side gears move on me? Ive never done this so Im not sure if you have to weld it in a jig or not. Any advice?
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Old 01-24-2005, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Stock Josh' date='Jan 24 2005, 04:55 PM
I'm thinking of yanking the diff from my RX3 and welding the side gears to the spiders. If I pull the diff out, can I just jump in with my welder, or will the side gears move on me? Ive never done this so Im not sure if you have to weld it in a jig or not. Any advice?





This is a race car only change. In slow tight corners it makes the car understeer.

So you need to add more rear bar to even things up. And you will be dragging a tire in anything but a straight line. So, rear tire wear will be a bit higher.





The spyder and side gears are hard as diamonds. They will crack into pieces if you just weld them with a stick welder.



Fill a tin can with lime. Stand up two bricks on end side by side. Apart just far enough to support one spyder gear. Fire up the torch and heat the spyder to a bright orange.



Using a piece of wire pick up the gear and drop it in the lime. forget about it for 3 hours.



Descale the gear. Tig the opening between two or three teeth full of filler wire. You will have to fit the assembly back together a few times to get the amount of filler right. Probably two weld beads on each side of the gear. Do both gears. The spyders, not the side gears. Clean everthing up assemble the rear.



Try it out. If you don't like it, steal two spyders from another rear and put it back to stock.



On rears with smaller windows in the carrier, there is an even simpler method.



Insert an extra spyder in beside the stock spyder, so that the extra spyder engages the side gears and the stock spyder. If the assembly window is small enough that the extra spyders cannot fall out. Assemble this mess in the window, rotate the assembly and install the spyder shaft. works great. No welding at all. Easy change back to stock.





Lynn E. Hanover
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Old 01-24-2005, 08:06 PM
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The man, the myth, the legend.



If the recovery from my impending neck surgery goes well and I can get the racecar out this year I have to look you up Lynn. Do you guys run any of the regionals at Mid-Ohio?
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Old 01-24-2005, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by C. Ludwig' date='Jan 24 2005, 06:06 PM
The man, the myth, the legend.



If the recovery from my impending neck surgery goes well and I can get the racecar out this year I have to look you up Lynn. Do you guys run any of the regionals at Mid-Ohio?





No we don't. Too much fun and not enough pressure.



We do make both Nationals and the runoffs (about 15 invitations so far).



If you get near Columbus, Email me for a tour.



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Old 01-25-2005, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Lynn E. Hanover' date='Jan 24 2005, 06:24 PM
No we don't. Too much fun and not enough pressure.



We do make both Nationals and the runoffs (about 15 invitations so far).



If you get near Columbus, Email me for a tour.



Lynn E. Hanover





I sure will. I'm originally from Tiffin. About an hour North of you. So I'm up that way a few times a year to see the family.





Sorry, to highjack the thread. I'll stop now.
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Old 02-07-2005, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Lynn E. Hanover' date='Jan 24 2005, 06:53 PM
This is a race car only change. In slow tight corners it makes the car understeer.

So you need to add more rear bar to even things up. And you will be dragging a tire in anything but a straight line. So, rear tire wear will be a bit higher.

The spyder and side gears are hard as diamonds. They will crack into pieces if you just weld them with a stick welder.



Fill a tin can with lime. Stand up two bricks on end side by side. Apart just far enough to support one spyder gear. Fire up the torch and heat the spyder to a bright orange.



Using a piece of wire pick up the gear and drop it in the lime. forget about it for 3 hours.



Descale the gear. Tig the opening between two or three teeth full of filler wire. You will have to fit the assembly back together a few times to get the amount of filler right. Probably two weld beads on each side of the gear. Do both gears. The spyders, not the side gears. Clean everthing up assemble the rear.



Try it out. If you don't like it, steal two spyders from another rear and put it back to stock.



On rears with smaller windows in the carrier, there is an even simpler method.



Insert an extra spyder in beside the stock spyder, so that the extra spyder engages the side gears and the stock spyder. If the assembly window is small enough that the extra spyders cannot fall out. Assemble this mess in the window, rotate the assembly and install the spyder shaft. works great. No welding at all. Easy change back to stock.

Lynn E. Hanover



This is the most unessasary way of welding a diff that I have ever seen, I have seen like 20-30 diffs welded and none of these come close to this much work, Hard as diomonds lol

and none have broken and they were all in big rockcrawlers with at least 35" tires (much much more stress then a car with stock tires) If you want to do it so you can return it to stock just weld up all the gaps in the teeth on the spider gear that you can see with the diff assembled front and back then if you want to put it back get new spiders, If you are set on this and want it to be as strong as possible weld all the gears togther with cooling periodicly(sp?)

BTW stick will probally be fine but I think mig is best
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