Numbers On Sbc 350 Block
02-28-2004, 10:52 AM
#11
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 668
I don't think 6 bolts will fit. 2 bolts are perfectly fine! Lots of guys on Corvetteforum.com use them with ~400HP. Once you stud them, they are ok. 4 bolt SPLAYED caps will help, too. (2 bolts straight in, 2 more in an angle to the block)
02-28-2004, 12:50 PM
#12
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Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 334
Originally Posted by Apex13B' date='Feb 28 2004, 01:03 AM
300 ft lbs your dreaming man
i have seem the 2 bolt motor saw themselves in half in stock form. get a bowtie block
i have seem the 2 bolt motor saw themselves in half in stock form. get a bowtie block
300 .lbs of torque is easy, 1970 was a good year for a sbc block, the motor stock had 250 hp in whatever car it was in, i am adding 4 bolt main caps. this motor will be built slowly by the best manufactorers products, my manager's show car is only a 2 bolt main sbc 350, hes putting down 475 hp to the wheels and its a rat motor, he just knows his ****, this guy (john haws) is a very gifted motorhead, but if he only was into rotaries its not like im going to rev to 7 or 8 grand in first gear or neautral, the motor will be bolted to a t-56 6 speed manual tranny, when i say built, did i mention my manager has tortured the hell out of his, runs like a top.
maybe ill add 6 bolt main caps or is that a totally different gen of the sbc block?
maybe ill add 6 bolt main caps or is that a totally different gen of the sbc block?
You might also consider studding the mains and/or using something like nodular iron main caps instead of having the block machined for 4-bolt mains. If you did have your heart set on 4-bolt mains, I would shop junk yards before paying to have the extra machine work done. You can probably find a 4-bolt block for cheaper.
You may already be aware of the fact that one simply doesn't bolt on 4-bolt main caps. The term "rat" is usually in regards to big block motors.
02-28-2004, 11:04 PM
#13
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: KAOH
Posts: 597
im actually pretty lucky, the town i live in has a population of about 35000. there are 4 high performance muscle/machine shops here in town and one import shop. ive priced the machine work, the cleanest of the 4 shops was also the cheapest for the block work, although cheap is not necesarily good, but they come in high regard around here. i wish the four bolt main caps would just bolt on, lol, the commercial for the new GTO said it had 6 bolt mains, the ****** looks sweet.
03-01-2004, 07:05 PM
#14
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 18
The GTO has a derrivative of the LS1 motor in it (LS2) and yes it has six bolt mains (4 vertical 2 horizontal) but the bottom of the block is much beefier than yours. This block is all alluminum hence the reason it has six bolt mains (al dosen't have the shear modulus that steel has). As far as your two bolt block. As long as the entire rotating assembly is balanced the two bolt mains should be just fine especially if your keep the reves below say 6-6250. The other option is to either machine the block to accept 4 bolt mains or get a new block. I would recommend getting a new block bc the blocks aren't the same. The four bolt main block has more material when compared to the 2 bolt block (most years) so tapping two extra holes dosen't mean adding more strength. If I may make a suggestion get an lt1 block from a 1997 or below camero/firebird/gm truck it is a cast iron six bolt block that can be had fairly cheaply (150-250). IF your bore the cylinders you have to get new pistons so getting them in the deal wasn't a deal... Hope this helps feel free to contact me if you need more information
03-01-2004, 10:29 PM
#15
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: KAOH
Posts: 597
im still learning about sbc's, im reading **** every day and asking questions all the time, all the help here is really appreciated, when everythign starts to come together ill post pics for anyone that cares, watch me get flamed like a mother ******,lol 
i know what i want out of it now and what to do and what not to do so now its just getting all the parts and money. opinions of this setup please
sbc block, bored .30 over 355 cu. inch's magnafluxed, 4 bolt main caps added.
9.4.1 compression hypertonic pistons, flat top
GM performance 64 cc fast burn combustion chambers1.94 intake, 1.50 exhaust valves, GM performance vortech intake manifold.
dual plain street demon carb. 650 cfm
comp cams camshaft, still havnt figured out what to use-any suggestions?
i want hydraulic roller rockers, roller cam, roller lifters,
standard water pump
looking for serpantine belt setup under 300 bucks, i will only be using water pump/alternator
has standard 350 crank also,
as for exhaust, dont know, dont know what it going in yet?
i only want 365 hp.350 lbs. of torque, i believe ill hit that mark rather easily, just need to figure out what cam to use, this setup will be bolted to a wc borg warner t-5 tranny or t-56 with a lightened flywheel. opinions?
sbc block, bored .30 over 355 cu. inch's magnafluxed, 4 bolt main caps added.
9.4.1 compression hypertonic pistons, flat top
GM performance 64 cc fast burn combustion chambers1.94 intake, 1.50 exhaust valves, GM performance vortech intake manifold.
dual plain street demon carb. 650 cfm
comp cams camshaft, still havnt figured out what to use-any suggestions?
i want hydraulic roller rockers, roller cam, roller lifters,
standard water pump
looking for serpantine belt setup under 300 bucks, i will only be using water pump/alternator
has standard 350 crank also,
as for exhaust, dont know, dont know what it going in yet?
i only want 365 hp.350 lbs. of torque, i believe ill hit that mark rather easily, just need to figure out what cam to use, this setup will be bolted to a wc borg warner t-5 tranny or t-56 with a lightened flywheel. opinions?
03-01-2004, 11:48 PM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 334
I would seriously consider finding an original 4-bolt main block if you are set on 4-bolt mains.
Another option you might explore is a crate motor. The 365 hp and 350 lb./ft. are down quite a bit from the original power expectations and you can pick up a crate motor with a warranty for probably $2,500.00 that puts down power levels around what you are looking for. :]
The first thing I would do is set a budget. After you have established what kind of money you are willing to spend you can explore all your options whether they be piecing the motor together, finding a turn-key crate motor or finding a nice long block. A lot of the time you can save some money if you buy parts in bulk such as a long block or a rotating assembly.
If you shop around you can find a 383 rotating assembly with a decent set of hypereutectic pistons and pink rods for probably $700.00 to $800.00.
The options you have are limitless. :]
Another option you might explore is a crate motor. The 365 hp and 350 lb./ft. are down quite a bit from the original power expectations and you can pick up a crate motor with a warranty for probably $2,500.00 that puts down power levels around what you are looking for. :]
The first thing I would do is set a budget. After you have established what kind of money you are willing to spend you can explore all your options whether they be piecing the motor together, finding a turn-key crate motor or finding a nice long block. A lot of the time you can save some money if you buy parts in bulk such as a long block or a rotating assembly.
If you shop around you can find a 383 rotating assembly with a decent set of hypereutectic pistons and pink rods for probably $700.00 to $800.00.
The options you have are limitless. :]
03-02-2004, 11:41 AM
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: California
Posts: 22,465
Originally Posted by sleeperRX7' date='Feb 27 2004, 08:40 PM
300 .lbs of torque is easy, 1970 was a good year for a sbc block, the motor stock had 250 hp in whatever car it was in, i am adding 4 bolt main caps. this motor will be built slowly by the best manufactorers products, my manager's show car is only a 2 bolt main sbc 350, hes putting down 475 hp to the wheels and its a rat motor, he just knows his ****, this guy (john haws) is a very gifted motorhead, but if he only was into rotaries its not like im going to rev to 7 or 8 grand in first gear or neautral, the motor will be bolted to a t-56 6 speed manual tranny, when i say built, did i mention my manager has tortured the hell out of his, runs like a top.
maybe ill add 6 bolt main caps or is that a totally different gen of the sbc block?
maybe ill add 6 bolt main caps or is that a totally different gen of the sbc block?
sbc = small block
remember apex 13b builds roadracing motors, they have to run for hours at a time at high rpms and full throttle.
03-05-2004, 12:46 AM
#20
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 18
get a junk yard motor with everything...LT1 LS1 etc...turn key, fairly cheap plus a short warranty...3-6 months normally.....DEFINATLY use the t56 6th is .5 to 1 overdrive which helps greatly on the road with the 4.10 mazda rear end....The LT1's have forged pistons and the LS1 has hyperetuctic pistons....LS1 is all al block so it is more expensive I got a complete ls1 engine tranny harness computer sensors etc for 4500...As far as a cam go for one that favors the exhaust side over the intake. SBC chevvy's are naturally exhaust limited. You need to decide where you want power not how much you want to choose the life, seperation etc...I recommend one that concentrates 2-5 of 2,5-5,5k You want to keep moderate to low valve lift for street use and daily drivers but upgrade the valve springes anyway.