2 New Kills, Nothing Spectacular
12-24-2003, 11:56 PM
#51
Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: North Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 40
BrandonDrecksage
Not to question what your saying, but tak ethe same n/a car with the nos, and put some boost in it and the same thing will happen. Also, if you have a good spooling turbo, then it creats jsut as much stress. My friend has a 16g on his DSM and it goes from 0 psi to about 15 psi in less time it takes me to look at the boost gauge, then look at teh road real quick, tehn look at the boost gauge. it has full boost in less than 1k rpms. Also, I have a friend, with a mustang, 125 shot, made atleast 1 pass a weekend for the whole summer. And his car is running perfect. So tell me where all of this stress comes from? according to you his car should have blown up by now after all of those passes
Not to question what your saying, but tak ethe same n/a car with the nos, and put some boost in it and the same thing will happen. Also, if you have a good spooling turbo, then it creats jsut as much stress. My friend has a 16g on his DSM and it goes from 0 psi to about 15 psi in less time it takes me to look at the boost gauge, then look at teh road real quick, tehn look at the boost gauge. it has full boost in less than 1k rpms. Also, I have a friend, with a mustang, 125 shot, made atleast 1 pass a weekend for the whole summer. And his car is running perfect. So tell me where all of this stress comes from? according to you his car should have blown up by now after all of those passes
To take a NA car, not built for boost, and add boost yes it will blow. But if you can read i used a TII and a NA with n2o. The NA will pop first given all surcumstances are contorled.
No car comes from the factory with n2o. The reason that this happens is because it is very destructive and not reliable.
As for the turbo part. A turbo still spools, builds pressure. Your friends DSM is making boost before the guage reads it. The guage just isnt as accurate. A turbo does not have its impeller stay stationary until a set rpm it is gradualy gaining speed with the build in exhaust pressure. If they guage is VERY accurate, I mean your friend had it calibrated, the you might want to have the turbo looked at. Cause if it is making Opsi boost and the as you are driving it kicks in to 15psi there is definitly a problem.
Your friends mustang is built alot more robust than most import vehicles. It is a V8. Most V8 domestic engines will take ALOT of abuse. That is why they dominate the drag strip. The domestic V8 is one of the strongest designs of any kind of engine(other than a desiel)
I never said that your friends car should have blow up. I said that the use of n2o on a regular basis will damage an engine alot faster than a turbo. And for his engine running perfectly. Well no engine has ever run pefectly ITS IMPOSSIBLE.
PS im a mechanic so i have a slight idea how it all works
12-25-2003, 10:00 AM
#53
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,882
Originally Posted by Srce' date='Dec 25 2003, 12:16 AM
Personaly, I'd love a boosted ITR or Civic Hatch.
Like this one, I always wanted a HB like this one. It's clean, great paint, modded and not slow, oh, and it's a Civic. LOL
HOT ****
Like this one, I always wanted a HB like this one. It's clean, great paint, modded and not slow, oh, and it's a Civic. LOL
HOT ****
nice for a winter beater lol
12-25-2003, 02:49 PM
#54
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Frederick MD
Posts: 6,331
Originally Posted by 4RotorRocket' date='Dec 22 2003, 08:49 PM
I don't know I just called it that...would throttle bottle be better? It's the MOTOR that's making the power sure but it's what's in that bottle that GIVES it the ability to do so.
Oh, and I never called anyone a F&F "poser". I was explaining how the use of "NOS" by that dumb *** movie has caused everyone to frown on it when a few years ago it was more talked about than any other mod...
You have to prep a motor to handle both nitrous and turbo applications. Where is the difference? Sure maybe a bottle is a hell of a lot easier to install, but by no means does it make a car any less at heart..
12-25-2003, 04:45 PM
#55
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 1,784
There's supposedly a newer Celica running aroudn town that sprays a 75 shot. But, he is tuned for it, and from what i've heard has completely new internals. Whether or not this is true or just something people made up is another story though.
12-25-2003, 07:53 PM
#56
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Sioux City, IA
Posts: 26
ricer this ricer that, i agree its a mentality not a car. that mentality shows through the car though.....did anyone notice this integra LS was yellow....only type-Rs came in yellow. that doesnt exactly make him a ricer but it sure as hell could.
was it painted or was it a type-r....the world may never know.
oh and why would a 7 having lsd be so much more of an advantage than that 944 having it?? weird
was it painted or was it a type-r....the world may never know.
oh and why would a 7 having lsd be so much more of an advantage than that 944 having it?? weird
12-25-2003, 09:34 PM
#57
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: green brook, nj
Posts: 792
Originally Posted by 89Turbo944' date='Dec 24 2003, 09:56 PM
To take a NA car, not built for boost, and add boost yes it will blow. But if you can read i used a TII and a NA with n2o. The NA will pop first given all surcumstances are contorled.
No car comes from the factory with n2o. The reason that this happens is because it is very destructive and not reliable.
As for the turbo part. A turbo still spools, builds pressure. Your friends DSM is making boost before the guage reads it. The guage just isnt as accurate. A turbo does not have its impeller stay stationary until a set rpm it is gradualy gaining speed with the build in exhaust pressure. If they guage is VERY accurate, I mean your friend had it calibrated, the you might want to have the turbo looked at. Cause if it is making Opsi boost and the as you are driving it kicks in to 15psi there is definitly a problem.
Your friends mustang is built alot more robust than most import vehicles. It is a V8. Most V8 domestic engines will take ALOT of abuse. That is why they dominate the drag strip. The domestic V8 is one of the strongest designs of any kind of engine(other than a desiel)
I never said that your friends car should have blow up. I said that the use of n2o on a regular basis will damage an engine alot faster than a turbo. And for his engine running perfectly. Well no engine has ever run pefectly ITS IMPOSSIBLE.
PS im a mechanic so i have a slight idea how it all works
No car comes from the factory with n2o. The reason that this happens is because it is very destructive and not reliable.
As for the turbo part. A turbo still spools, builds pressure. Your friends DSM is making boost before the guage reads it. The guage just isnt as accurate. A turbo does not have its impeller stay stationary until a set rpm it is gradualy gaining speed with the build in exhaust pressure. If they guage is VERY accurate, I mean your friend had it calibrated, the you might want to have the turbo looked at. Cause if it is making Opsi boost and the as you are driving it kicks in to 15psi there is definitly a problem.
Your friends mustang is built alot more robust than most import vehicles. It is a V8. Most V8 domestic engines will take ALOT of abuse. That is why they dominate the drag strip. The domestic V8 is one of the strongest designs of any kind of engine(other than a desiel)
I never said that your friends car should have blow up. I said that the use of n2o on a regular basis will damage an engine alot faster than a turbo. And for his engine running perfectly. Well no engine has ever run pefectly ITS IMPOSSIBLE.
PS im a mechanic so i have a slight idea how it all works
12-25-2003, 10:29 PM
#58
Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: North Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 40
yeah, no ****, but my whole point is based on....if you have a car that is built for n20 and a car that is built for a turbo, the turbo will blow first because you can'r turn off the boost plus you wil have better gas mileage and better driveability with the n20 car.
Hate to burst your bubble. A turbo charged car will last longer than a n2o propeled car. Unless you completly re design the engin it will not last a factory turbocharged car. My point is that if you use n2o the same amount of time that a turbocharged car uses its boost, the n2o powered car will pop. I have seen it happen.
I think you may need to reasearch how a turbocharger works. First off, a trubocharged car will use more gas when it is producing a certain amount of boost. Untill that point is reached there will be no fuel inrichment. Meaning that you can keep the gas milage down by not boosting.
This in not possible in a n2o car. You can not avoid the fact that the n2o has to have an extra amount of fuel added. Eather metered by the stock injectors, or by a second set of injectors. This uses much more fuel than a turbo requires when boosting.
The gas milage of a n2o powered car will not differ gratley from a n2o powered car. IF you are using the n2o as often as a turbocharged car will use its boost. If you use the n2o on odd ocasions it will probably last longer than a turbocharged car.
THIS ALL DEPENDSON YOUR DRIVING STYLE!!!
My father owns a 197X BMW 2002tii. It is a factory turbocharged BMW. It has the original engine, original turbo, orginal everything basicly. With the exception of standard wear items such as brakes and such. He drives this car every day. To and from work. He takes it on long trips. And he tends to beat on it from time to time. So if i use that car compaired to almost any NA car that has n2o it is no comparison. n2o is very damaging to a cars engine. My TII has outlast my budies NA with a 75shot nos. I boost every chance i get (that is safe anyway). He would use the "nos" as often as i would boost. His car has a rebuilt S5 NA motor in it that was specificly built to deal with n2o. His motor blew before mine. Mine has actualy never blown. As well as my 95' R2, 82' 320i Turbo.
evryoneknows if you put a large sho of n2o on a stock engine, i isn't good, but the same thing would happen if you put a turbo or sc on that car
That is incorect again. It seems as tho not everyone knows that putting a shot of n2o on a na car will kill it. I have seen countles blown engines because the guy thought that it would be fine if hes hit the "lil red button". If the car has all the systems that usualy come with a n2o kit it will make it safer but not reliable. It is still not safe to do to the engine.
If the NA car has all the proper systems that come in a turbo or supercharger kit then it will last longer. They are designed to last longer.
Like i said before. "NOS" is a HUGE stress on the engine. Not that a trubo isnt, but a turbo gradually builds boost, where as n2o adds boost instaniosly. "A 50shot of nitrous oxide ,in a sealed combustion chamber, is equal to the force of a 12 guage shot gun shell exploding." This kind of impact on an engine is very stressful.
A turbo does not produce these kind of impacts. Rather it gradualy steps up the boost levels. Which is much easier for the car to handle.
PS no need for bad language.
Tim
12-27-2003, 04:47 PM
#59
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 203
Alright, new rule: if you don't have any personal experience with nitrous, your opinion is invalid.
I have run hundreds of pounds of nitrous through my rotary engines. The stock block requires no modifications within 400-500 horsepower (port shape aside). In this aspect, it differs from most piston engines.
My coolant seals to not become brittle and crack. That is just bullshit.
The "shock" of horsepower from the engagement of nitrous does no measurable extra wear to the block. It does not instantly flex the eccentric shaft (no rotor to iron contact), it does nto force the rotor the wrong way. What "instantaneous" wear is there?
The only reason nitrous is unreliable on a rotary is because of shitty tuning or poor installation. After experimentation with over 30 engines, including stock N/A's, built N/A's, built 13BT's, N/A bridgeports, and my latest turbo Periphereal port, (and having zero engine failures), I implore anyone here to provide some real proof that nitrous damages our engines.
http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/NOS.htm
Its one thing to spout off what you have heard/read from others. Its another to get yor information firsthand. I think I represent the latter, and the remainder fo this thread otherwise. Nesciene and inexperience seems to run wild in this thread...
I have run hundreds of pounds of nitrous through my rotary engines. The stock block requires no modifications within 400-500 horsepower (port shape aside). In this aspect, it differs from most piston engines.
My coolant seals to not become brittle and crack. That is just bullshit.
The "shock" of horsepower from the engagement of nitrous does no measurable extra wear to the block. It does not instantly flex the eccentric shaft (no rotor to iron contact), it does nto force the rotor the wrong way. What "instantaneous" wear is there?
The only reason nitrous is unreliable on a rotary is because of shitty tuning or poor installation. After experimentation with over 30 engines, including stock N/A's, built N/A's, built 13BT's, N/A bridgeports, and my latest turbo Periphereal port, (and having zero engine failures), I implore anyone here to provide some real proof that nitrous damages our engines.
http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/NOS.htm
Its one thing to spout off what you have heard/read from others. Its another to get yor information firsthand. I think I represent the latter, and the remainder fo this thread otherwise. Nesciene and inexperience seems to run wild in this thread...