What size sub?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 193
From: pueblo, colorado
Im not that experience with subs.And ive always wanted a solarbaric (sp?) 15" sub. but is that to much for a FC? would two 10's sound better? i know that you have to have enough air to "move" to get the bass, and im not sure what size is best for a FC.
Administrator
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 24,416
From: Stuart, FL
a solobaric 15 is way overkill IMO. I had a 12" dr crankenstein in my t2, when i got the vert i went to a 10" solobaric, i love it and it's more then adequate and that's considering my amp can't even properly drive the dual coils.
I would say go with two 10's or two 12's if you really like a lot of boom
I would say go with two 10's or two 12's if you really like a lot of boom
Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 67
You should just go to a stereo shop and take a listen. There's no "best size" subwoofer for a car. It's mostly about prefrence, and what sound you're looking for. Do you want a car that sounds good on the inside? Or do you want people on the outside to hear it?
10's tend to be more responsive, tight springy bass, but they arn't pushing THAT much air around.
15's are loud, and move a lot of air... but their response suffers (that bigger cone, and similarly-sized spider make for some sloppy bass)
12's are a nice middleman; with the pro's and con's of each.
Wanna system that your state senator can hear? 3000watts and 4 15"s. Want to listen to some Eric Clapton and feel the bass-drum in your chest? You only really need a 10" and 2-300watts.
I'm actually putting 2 8"s in my strut towers. I just need a little more low-end to balance it out from my components and tweeters... even though rear-fill sucks.
You're best off just listening to stuff and figuuring out what you like.
10's tend to be more responsive, tight springy bass, but they arn't pushing THAT much air around.
15's are loud, and move a lot of air... but their response suffers (that bigger cone, and similarly-sized spider make for some sloppy bass)
12's are a nice middleman; with the pro's and con's of each.
Wanna system that your state senator can hear? 3000watts and 4 15"s. Want to listen to some Eric Clapton and feel the bass-drum in your chest? You only really need a 10" and 2-300watts.
I'm actually putting 2 8"s in my strut towers. I just need a little more low-end to balance it out from my components and tweeters... even though rear-fill sucks.
You're best off just listening to stuff and figuuring out what you like.
Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 67
Originally Posted by 89 Rag' post='797750' date='Jan 30 2006, 12:28 AM
I'm running two 12's wired in series, bridged at 1000w at 2 ohm's. It hits pretty good but the headlights dim a little at night though, prorbably wouldn't hurt to add a 1/2 phare cap at this point.
...are you sure you don't mean wired in Parallel? Series would put you at 8Ohm w/ 4Ohm subs...
Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 83
Well. I know that, in personal experience. And my prefference.
Dual 12's is the way to go.
I think the 15's distort way too much, no matter what, and the 10s don't have the kick.
if you want a really kickin' 12 go with the Alpine type R. About the best sub for decent money out there.
Dual 12's is the way to go.
I think the 15's distort way too much, no matter what, and the 10s don't have the kick.
if you want a really kickin' 12 go with the Alpine type R. About the best sub for decent money out there.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 244
What kind of music do you listen to? As Liquid Anarchy stated, 10s are responsive, 15s are slow. I used to have 2 10" MTX and they cranked. Now I have 2 12" MTX and they crank even more. Usually you can find good deals at Circuit city or Best Buy. I think I got the 2 10s, in a box, with an amp for $250 back in the day.