Seppuku

Ok heres the radio i think im going to get

And heres the speakers for those who dont know













Now i still got to find an amp and figure out if theres enough room to get some subs in behind the seats. I had an idea the other night about cutting holes out of the board that covers the spare tire and putting sub in there, anyone think that will work or would it look stupid? and when i put the top down theyd get muffled pretty bad.speakers didnt work had to add them to the end :bigok:

89 Rag

I installed two 12" subs in that area. I removed the spare tire and bracket, threw the plastics to the side, and fitted a custom box in the space. Since subs arent really directional, they will perform, even with the top down. The box height is lower than the supports that hold the top in the (down) position. Admittedly 2 12's is a little overkill, a single 8,10,or 12 would be much easier to install in an enclosure w/o modifing the car much. A nice 300w 2 channel sub amp. and a 400w 4 channel amp. can easily be hidden in the car, and will outfit your proposed system nicely.

Seppuku

ok thanks for the help. But what if i just cut a hole in the top of the cover for the spare tire and left everyting else alone would that work or would i have to remove the tire to get it in there?

89 Rag

IMO its best to build an enclosure for the driver, which ever size you choose, that flimsy little cover will not do the job, the driver will sound very hollow and flat. Another option would be to utilize the space in the cargo area behind the seats. I believe there's enough air space to accomodate a JL10W6 or two if you prefer.

Seppuku

yeah i didnt think about how flimsy it was, damn. i really havent even opened that area up yet. well i have a box sitting in my room right now that i made some time ago but i dont think it would work to well.

Seppuku

well this amp seems alright its in my price range

heres the info on it 120 watts x 4 at 2 ohms

240 watts x 2 in bridged mode

2-, 3-, or 4-channel output

Tri-Way capable

variable high-pass crossovers (12-200 Hz, 12 dB/octave), front and rear channels

variable low-pass crossovers (40-200 Hz, 24 dB/octave), front and rear channels

preamp outputs with crossovers

blue power light strip

anti-thump circuit

thermal, short-circuit, and power/ground reversal protection

FCmaniac

Seppuku, did you already buy that US Acoustics amp?



I'd recommend not buying it... I know it seems like a good deal but from my experience, they are not reliable and cannot handle 2 ohms (4 ohm mono) loads very well. I had a 100x2 bridged to one 10" JL in a sealed box... all the wiring was top notch, I even hooked a fan up for it, and it still went into protection several times for overheating and eventually just blew. My brother has also just purchased one and already sent it back in one week. It was going into protection even with the speakers unplugged and no real load on the amp.....

RXONMYMIND

Ok, This is what I have and it's still sounds like crap, but for what it worth.. In the dash of my vert 88, Kappa infinitys 42.3i (4 1/2"), in the doors 52's (5 1/4"). In the process if custom installing the JL 10w6(1) and the JL 250 watt mono block amp. Right now the speakers are running off the pioneer 1400 deh(which happens to be the only thing I'm happy about). Beware though these speakers are really bright in the teewts! And that's after 6 mo. of break in & set to -1 on the head unit. I'll be getting rid of these soon to replace them w/ some dynaudio 3pc set. With the above set up you'll get a some of phasing from L to R in certain songs. Maybe it's due to it being all coaxils? On the plus side you can here these speakers adequetly

(not loud) w/ the top down as they'll start to compress and distort @ level 23 volume on my head unit. Maybe not enough power and that's why there distorting?



And you'll have w/ the JL 10w6 .99cu. in" (-10%for the driver) for a total area of .89cu in of space to put that sub in there. This is the measurement for behind the drivers seat well area. If you want to do this part youself it's fairly easy. You'll need plaster roll(same stuff used to wrap broken arms) from your local hobby store, seran wrap, wd-40, and a painters "pail" w/ warm water in it.



1. Lay the saran wrap in the well area as smooth as possable. and yes over that tube thingie back there that goes to the electric motor.

2. Spray WD-40 on saran.

3. Get the plaster roll- cut into 3-4" strips dip into warm water and lay over

saran.

4. let dry.

5. take out and flip it upside down and viola you now have a cast of the well! and you may now proceed to fiberglassing it! Just take step one & two and replace step three w/ fiberglass epoxy & resin and you've saved your self $$$. Good luck. It's THAT EASY. :P

Seppuku

No i havent already bought it. Thanks for the warning :bigok: Im glad i didnt go ahead and get it last night.

Seppuku

ok i have a 10" sub in a enclosure sitting in my room right now but i dont have an amp. How bad would it sound if i just spliced some wires and ran it that way for a little while? and whre do the wires run so i can do this?