dysthymia

A little back-story: On my Series IV GXL, the stock stereo was the AM/FM cassette player, w/ equalizer. When I had a Pioneer DEH-P2000 installed, the stereo shop that did the install told me that the job would be a bit longer than a regular install due to individual amps powering each speaker. Being that the Pioneer has its own 45Wx4 amp, they had to rewire past the existing individual amps to get things working properly. In fact, they showed me the units afterward, and they LOOKED genuine anyway. They certainly didn't charge more for what they did, if they were lying.



Anyhow, now that the Series IV is a battered beast in my driveway, I gutted the Pioneer deck out of there, and ordered up the parts from Crutchfield to do my own install on the new rig. Which, at long last, brings me to my question:



Will my Series V GTU with the stock AM/FM cassette stereo be equipped with these little individual amps for each speaker? I really don't want to get the deck installed and discover that I have even more work to do cutting and splicing wires. That stuff is not my idea of fun, to say the least. I also don't want to go dismantling the car in search of something that may not even be there. Does anyone know the answer to my query? Anyone?? Bueller?

The Blue Bomber

i believe ther is but i'm not to sure. i installed my panasonic 301 (i want a pioneer deh-9300) from my prelude and two alpine 6.5's that i had and while they sounded great in the prelude in my 7 the output is kinda shitty and they distort at lower volumes than in the lude. when i have the time i am gonna trace the wires and see if i can find the amps.

OKIERX-7

yea, let us know if you find those amps. I wanna pull mine out just to get rid of the extra weight.



Mike

rota-re

I've got a series IV which has the individually amplified speakers in the rear (not 100% sure bout the front.... i think they are "normal") I found that it was easier just to buy some new speakers rather than playing around with the stock amplified ones.... i assume that the series V is the same.... u could use the stock cables that carry the sound from the head unit (these run up into the strut towers) and leave the power cables disconnected. The speakers are very simple to pull out (only a few screws) and then you can see for sure if the series V are individually amped..... if there are only 2 wires going into the speakers... they are normal... if there are 4 or five wires going into them, and you can see the heat sinks (metal fins) hanging out of the the speaker.... they are individually amped (and therefore not compatible with your new head unit). Hope this helps



Also, on another note.... (if the series V is the same as series IV) the stock stereo is made in 3 individual pieces. Therefore, you can pull out just 1 section (eg. the tape deck) and put yer new head unit into its place, and not have any holes (or have to use blanking plates). I found this just looked better....



lemme know if ya want some pics of my install.....

88Anny

Kind of on the same note, are the factory radio's double din? I have an 88 and someone told me they are more than a double din?

kid00RX7

Guys, The hole in the dash is a double,but the trim ring that goes around the dash is wider. Thats why it has spacers attached to it. I have a 5.6 monitor located in my dash and my radio mounted in my glove box. So theres plenty of space in the dash.

dysthymia

So Vosko filled me in on the series V stereo stuff. The door speakers are the only ones in the system that run from a separate amplifier. That amplifier is located under the dash on the passenger side. In fact, once you find where the amp is located, you just unscrew the puppy, disconnect the wiring harness on each side of the amp, and plug the two ends of the wiring harness together. ZING-O, ampless door speakers. The dash and strut tower speakers run from the deck, so there are no other bypasses to worry about.



On the Crutchfield kit: Once I wired together the adaptor to my Pioneer's harness, everything plugged in nicely. The Metra(?) mounting hardware required quite a bit of work with a file to get the stuff flattened out, but once it was done, everything fit nicely. In fact, I deviated from the instructions a little bit to give the mounting hardware a bit more structure, and it all still fit.