haha, you get what you pay for!



If you decide to keep the car the next guy painting it will have to

strip that Maaco crap off the car and you will end up paying more,

if they even get involved at that point. I myself wouldnt touch a car

that was painted at Maaco unless I stripped all that **** off.



So that "bargain" $280 paint job will turn into a nightmare.



By the way you wont get a IBM paint job from Maaco for $280.

$280 is for a solid color. Not a mettalic that needs clear coat or

better yet a SPECIFIC color like that.

 

Well.. Macco might be good.. but I'm not sure, because I haven't personally delt with them..

 

the only thing its good for is a beater or something you will be

selling. The paint technically never dries, it has no hardner, if you

live in hot climate and lean on the car on a hot day you will damage

the paint, you can actually smell the paint on a hot day, lol.

They spray it with a pressure system out of big drums, they spray

the same color all day, depending on the day of the week.

 

well ok i will down to rob...it is just that my car is looking soooo faded and you can see in the 2nd gen sec....hehehe anyway in 1st gen specific there is a thread you will see a pic of the guy's car who i bought it from. the turbo fb. he recently got a macco job and it actually looks very nice, it just looked like the paint job was well worth the money. i guess time will tell though huh?

 

as long as you dont live in a sunny area and you dont plan on keeping the car long I guess you cant beat it for the money.



Guess you could always let them freshen it up every few years.



You would be surprised what a good compunding might do to the

faded red paint

 

well, that may sound like a better idea. i mean i'm not going to be able to afford an ideal paint job for about the next decade or so, so that's why i opted for the cheap job. rob, i would really like to hear what you would suggest..

 

whats a good compound to get faded paint back to normal color?

 

3m Micro-finishing compound applied by machine at about 2300 rpm or so, followed by 3M perfect-it III machine glaze, or even Perfect-it II foam polishing glaze,at about 1800-2000 rpm, I do not however use foam pads, I use the finesse it yellow pads, then go over the paint once again with the same stuff and a foam pad.

There probably isnt THAT much paint left on there, otherwise I would say to use the Perfect It II, or III fine compound after the Micro finishing compound.



I also follow this up with Perfect it III finishing glaze, which is applied and removed by hand, then a good coat or two of wax applied and removed entirely by hand as well.

 

ok well i'm gonna have to give that a try. rob when are u and sep gonna do some write ups? haha u guys are slackin....

 

how much would something like that cost for a body shop to do? Just curious.