I Clearcoated Some Polished Metal.. Pics
02-09-2003, 10:16 AM
#41
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Location: jackson, ms
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there is a **** ton of work involved in polishing. there are about 8 different steps that i use in just the sanding aspect. then you have to polish the metal with tripoli and rouge, and then, when i am done with that, i use some mthers metal polish......and then, you can clear it. but watch out for finger prints....i cleared over some once, and you could defiantely see them.....
just for useless knowledge, if you were to polish ONE greddy intercooler pipe, about 3" diameter and 12-14" in length, it would take about 1.5-2.0 hours on just the sanding and buffing out. then you would clear it.....
i have a nother technique that i use also, and that is using a ultra fine stainless steel pad....they do well....and clear out all of the scratches....i use themto upkeep the look....however, even though i like the polished look, i am seriously going to have mine chromed so that i get that ultra shine......
just for useless knowledge, if you were to polish ONE greddy intercooler pipe, about 3" diameter and 12-14" in length, it would take about 1.5-2.0 hours on just the sanding and buffing out. then you would clear it.....
i have a nother technique that i use also, and that is using a ultra fine stainless steel pad....they do well....and clear out all of the scratches....i use themto upkeep the look....however, even though i like the polished look, i am seriously going to have mine chromed so that i get that ultra shine......
02-09-2003, 12:54 PM
#43
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Location: La Plata, Maryland
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I have a how to in the 3rd gen FAQ on this.
I usually spend a better part of a week polishing a UIM.
I start with 120 grit and go down to 1600 grit sandpaper. Then steel wool #0000
then Tripoly , then Whiterouge. then clear if you want. Up keep is done with Semichrome.
Anyone can do it. It just takes paitience. And alot of ******* sandpaper
Thanks for the compliment Mike.
I usually spend a better part of a week polishing a UIM.
I start with 120 grit and go down to 1600 grit sandpaper. Then steel wool #0000
then Tripoly , then Whiterouge. then clear if you want. Up keep is done with Semichrome.
Anyone can do it. It just takes paitience. And alot of ******* sandpaper
Thanks for the compliment Mike.
02-09-2003, 12:55 PM
#44
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02-09-2003, 12:58 PM
#45
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Originally Posted by papasmurf' date='Feb 9 2003, 02:21 AM
could it be possible to do it myself or are there a lot of things to worry about, like sanding too much, weak spots etc etc...?
Try sanding the casting pits out of anything under your hood and you'll see what I mean.
02-09-2003, 02:37 PM
#46
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i was talking with my friend who seems to know all, and he said about polishing the upperintake and throttle body could pose some heat disapation questions...
stock alum is somewhat "gritty" because it expells heat easier, when you poish it, it does it less... i doubt there's a noticable difference though.
stock alum is somewhat "gritty" because it expells heat easier, when you poish it, it does it less... i doubt there's a noticable difference though.
02-09-2003, 02:53 PM
#48
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Originally Posted by papasmurf' date='Feb 9 2003, 12:37 PM
i was talking with my friend who seems to know all, and he said about polishing the upperintake and throttle body could pose some heat disapation questions...
stock alum is somewhat "gritty" because it expells heat easier, when you poish it, it does it less... i doubt there's a noticable difference though.
stock alum is somewhat "gritty" because it expells heat easier, when you poish it, it does it less... i doubt there's a noticable difference though.
Your buddy is way to serious if he is worried about the heat form a polished part not dispersing as fast as a cast part.
Christ is he gonna make a heat shrink attachment for his UIM? LOL
02-09-2003, 03:14 PM
#49
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well he knows his ****, down to the LAST detail as i just proved... he doesn't own an fd though, but knows more about them than some people with them. how he knew about that beats me?! engineering degree?