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Almost Done Painting Hood

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Old 06-15-2004, 12:06 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Fd3BOOST' date='Jun 14 2004, 09:52 PM
Not butting in at all, I like to read through all the opinons. Thanks for sharing. So you were taught to start at 2k and work backwards in grits? I don't quite see the logic in that.
The 2k to start is to be on the safe side, you can see within a few strokes of the paper if the profile is smooth or not, the theory, as I was shown, you can go to a more coarse grit as the paint profile dictates, I have never used anything more coarse than 1200 on a customers car for a detail job, new paint is a little bit different in that you will know how much clear is on the car so you don't have to worry so much about going through it, you can be a little more agressive with the grit selection before polishing the car.
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Old 06-15-2004, 12:12 AM
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Originally Posted by 89 Rag' date='Jun 14 2004, 09:06 PM
The 2k to start is to be on the safe side, you can see within a few strokes of the paper if the profile is smooth or not, the theory, as I was shown, you can go to a more coarse grit as the paint profile dictates, I have never used anything more coarse than 1200 on a customers car for a detail job, new paint is a little bit different in that you will know how much clear is on the car so you don't have to worry so much about going through it, you can be a little more agressive with the grit selection before polishing the car.
Yea I really layed down alot of clear so I really had no reservations about sanding with 600.
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Old 06-15-2004, 06:03 AM
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I think he was saying he starts with 2000 to see how it will work

you want to end up using the finer paper.

Like I said- you use the finest paper that gets the job done.



It also depends on the clear that is on there, wet sanding

and polishing a hood like a FD doesnt take hours

but you will learn. Its also not like laquer where you just

put as much paint on there as you can and sand it later. Its

best to follow the guidelines set by the paint manufacturer.

Too much clear can be more prone to chipping and yellowing.



I use all 3M Finesse-it III products, depending on the size of the

job depends on if I use a foam pad or not, they tend to get

gummy on large jobs. Otherwise I use 3m superbuff compound

pads and finesse it pads.
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